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Restoration of an Agilent 53131A Frequency Counter

An enjoyable hobby is the restoration of vintage HP, Agilent, Tektronix and GenRad test equipment. In their day, these brands represented some of the finest U.S. engineering and manufacturing in the world, and two of them still do. What is common to all of them is the attention paid to ergonomics, product design and documentation.

Each time I restore one of these instruments, I gain insight into what the design engineers and the product designers had in mind.

Recently, I acquired an Agilent 53131A Frequency Counter found on eBay, one of my favorite sources for old test equipment. It is always a calculated risk because I never know for sure if whatever I have bought will arrive dead on arrival. Fortunately, eBay is very good about standing behind anything sold on their site that has been represented to be in good working order. They are unlike auction consolidators such as Allsurplus where everything is sold as is.

Naturally, when the counter arrived, I subjected it to the obligatory smoke test. The result is shown if Figure 1. The counter completed its self-test routine and rewarded me with a series of dashed lines in the display. That was a good sign, and it was off to a good start. When I purchased the unit, I made a best offer, and it was accepted. The reason that I did that is because I noticed some minor irregularities in the unit.

First of all, the display appeared to be dim in the photo, the likely result of running the counter for long durations for many years, maybe 30. The second thing that I noticed was the absence of the front and rear bumpers as well as a carrying handle. These, I am quite sure, were scavenged for resale on eBay. I have become quite used to that. Most of the instruments that I have restored were received minus their bottom and rear feet and in some cases their rack handles – a minor annoyance. I simply buy some and put them back on.

Most often these counters are purchased for HF use and do not feature prescaler options to extend the frequency range. This counter was no different. It was also shipped with the standard low-stability clock oscillator.

Figure 1. Agilent 53131A Frequency Counter, As Received. The display is dim but the unit passes self-test and enters ready mode. The unit was advertised and shipped without its front and rear bumpers as well as its carrying handle. The time base is a standard low-stability one, and there is no frequency extender option installed.

Upon seeing the condition of the display, I looked at the power supply schematic and found the test points for VFD display bias. The voltages checked okay. That test having been completed; I ordered a new display on eBay from a seller in China. The old display was marked Japan, but I could not find any other suitable displays for sale other than one in a non-working counter being sold for parts only.

I also looked for an inexpensive prescaler to install as an option. The one chosen works up to 3 GHz but others with higher division ratios were also available. This one provides accurate results for signals as low as -15 dBm, which is good enough for my purposes.

There were many sources for the front and rear bumpers and the carrying handle on eBay. I likely bought my own back.

All parts arrived in less than two weeks, which is about average for items ordered overseas that must pass through U.S. Customs.

An initial test was run on the counter to make sure that it would arm and run. I used whatever signal source was closest for this test, in this case, an HP 3314A Function Generator. The setup is shown in Figure 2. Both units are out of calibration so, it can’t be determined which is worse, the counter or the function generator.

Figure 2. Counter, As Received, Measuring 18 MHz. The most convenient signal source for initial testing was a bench-top HP 3314A Function Generator. Both the counter and the function generator are out of calibration. It’s difficult to know which is worse.

The first part to arrive was the frequency prescaler. The only disassembly required for installation was the instrument top cover.

I fastened the prescaler to the wall of the chassis on a pair of standoffs. The prescaler board was supplied with a coaxial cable for connection to a front panel SMA to BNC adapter and a ribbon cable for connection to the motherboard. The whole installation process was completed in an hour. The result is shown in Figure 3. The sensitivity of the prescaler was tested with a test signal of 2.55 GHz, as this particular synthesizer won’t tune much higher than that. The signal level was set to -10 dBm but the prescaler will provide stable counts for signals as low as -15 dBm.

Figure 3. Prescaler Test. The prescaler was tested with an HP 8663A Synthesized Signal Generator set to 2.55 GHz because it is the only microwave source available. A stable count is observed for power levels as low as -15 dBm. The front and rear bumpers as well as a carrying handle have been installed.

Once the vacuum fluorescent display arrived, I began to tear down the counter to the level required to remove the front panel. This also permitted cleaning 30 years of grime from the enclosure and circuit cards. Figure 4 shows the teardown.

Figure 4. Counter Teardown. The counter was disassembled using the assembly-level service guide. The power supply and motherboard remain in place. Only the front panel required removal.

Figure 5 provides a closer view of the front panel PCB and the old display. The new display is in the foreground. While the two displays are functionally the same, they have completely different layouts and are of different manufacture.

Figure 5. Close-up of the Front Panel and Vacuum Fluorescent Displays. While the displays look alike and possess the same pin-outs, they are entirely different designs.

The old display was removed from the front panel display printed circuit board that also contains the soft contacts for the front panel controls. Utmost care was taken in unsoldering and removing the old display. I wanted to preserve the old display if the new display was dead on arrival.

The unsoldering process was the one that I always use. The solder joints were painted with non-corrosive soldering flux. Next, each joint was resoldered with compatible solder. This is an important step because old solder joints tend to degrade with time. The newly resoldered joints are more easily heated and solder more easily removed with a solder puller like the one shown in Figure 6. This is an inexpensive tool that, when mastered, can remove all of the solder from the solder joints. Sometimes it takes three or even four passes with the solder puller on each joint to remove all of the solder from the holes. Once all of the solder has been removed, a needle nose pliers is used to wiggle each of the leads to ensure that it is free of solder and free from each hole. Another technique can be used provided that the replacement part is known to be good. Simply snip the leads of the old part and remove it. Then, there are still leads that have to be removed and holes that have to be cleaned. Some find this technique easier. Avoid the use of solder wick if at all possible. It really isn’t needed, and it usually ruins the circuit pads.

Figure 6. A Generic Solder Puller. This is a simple device that is just a spring-loaded plunger that, when released, can vacuum solder from solder joints. It pays to master the use of this device. Avoid the use of solder wick.

The old VFD was removed from the front circuit board. The old part and the new part are shown in Figure 7 for comparison. The two parts are of different provenance.

Figure 7. Old and New Vacuum Fluorescent Displays. The designs are very different: (top) the old part, (bottom) the new part. The pins on the old part are intact.

The display circuit card is shown in Figure 8. Non-corrosive soldering flux was painted on each solder joint and each joint was resoldered. This step is essential for old solder joints. Four passes were required to remove all of the solder with the solder puller. The board is undamaged as is the old display part.

Figure 8. Display Printed Circuit Board. The display was removed from the board with a solder puller. Four passes were required to remove all of the solder without damaging the pads. Flux residue was removed from the PCB with isopropanol.

The new display was soldered into the display circuit card and the PCB was cleaned with isopropanol to remove residual soldering flux and debris. The board was examined with a magnifier to ensure that the board was free of solder blobs and solder bridges. The counter disassembly procedure was reversed to reinstall the display circuit board into the front panel. Next, the front panel was fastened to the chassis, and the cover was replaced. The result is shown in Figure 9. The display brightness is just like new.

Figure 9. New Display Brightness. The new display works as advertised. A microwave signal of 2.55 GHz is displayed. The new prescaler BNC connector is marked Channel 3. The new front and rear bumpers and carrying handle are also visible. Please note that the difference in brightness across the display is an artifact that is due to the refresh rates of the counter and the camera.

One final modification will consist of the addition of a stable source to replace the standard one that drifts. Once complete, the instrument will be calibrated.

 

Astron SS-30M Power Supply Meter LED Retrofit

Introduction

The Astron SS-30M is a popular metered, switching power supply rated at 30 A. It is commonly used to power 100W radios.

In spite of a ubiquitous changeover to LED illumination, Astron persisted in using incandescent illumination in their power supply meters until a few years ago.

This article discusses the replacement of incandescent bulbs in power supply metering with LED illumination.

Caution. Before proceeding with any disassembly, verify that the line cord has been unplugged from the power supply, or from the wall outlet. There is no isolation transformer in these switching supplies, so it is particularly dangerous. The cover is fastened with Torx screws to prevent tampering.

Procedure

Upon opening an older Astron SS-30M [1] power supply, it was discovered that the meter scale backlighting bulbs could not be replaced without meter disassembly. That got me thinking about whether I could install my own incandescent bulbs or LEDs to replace what was inside the meter housings.

When I checked the Astron website, I found that retrofit circuit boards [2] to backlight these meters were being offered for $3 each. The boards come complete with integral, white, surface-mounted LEDs, integral dropping resistors, and wiring pigtails.  I immediately ordered two of them. This was a lot easier than retrofitting the old circuit boards with new LED bulbs and dropping resistors.

Meter disassembly is shown in Figure 1. The meters may be removed with their wiring harnesses and connectors intact. No desoldering is required to remove the meters from the next higher assembly. It is suggested that one of the harnesses and its mating connector be marked so that identification is easier during reassembly.

The meters are held to the power supply face with four spring clips (shown). These must be removed before the meters can be removed from the power supply face. Once the meters have been removed, the two screws that clamp each of the meters faces to the meter cases are removed (shown). Then, the meter faces may be swung upward to expose the meter movements. Care should be taken during this operation to remove any epoxy, RTV or plastic cement from the seam that holds the front face of the meter to the plastic meter housing. This may be done with a sharp blade. Once removed, each of the meter faces is set aside with its matching meter movement.

Figure 1. Astron SS-30M Power Supply Meter Disassembly. Take care when disassembling the meters so that the meter needles aren’t bent. Pair the meter scales with the correct meter movements. The current meter is to the left and the voltage meter is to the right. If an incorrect meter scale is paired with the wrong meter movement, one of the meter harnesses will not be long enough to reach the correct chassis connector.

The next step is to remove the meter scale. It is fastened to the meter movement with two small screws. I grasped both sides of the meter scale with one hand while removing these screws with a jeweler’s screwdriver to prevent the scale from moving and damaging the meter needle.  Once the meter scale has been removed, the internal meter movement and backlight bulbs are visible. The backlight bulb printed circuit board is held to the meter case with one small screw. This screw is removed with a jeweler’s screwdriver. Again, take care not to damage the meter needle.

Next, the printed circuit board is pulled up and away from the meter movement without touching the needle. Once out of the meter movement, the wires that power the board are snipped close to the old circuit board to leave the pigtails connected to the meter housing. The polarity of the lamp wiring is evident from the wire colors outside the meter case. In my supply, pink is used for the positive lead and black for the negative lead.

After stripping the insulation from the pigtails and tinning them, the new LED circuit boards were installed. A short length of very fine shrink tubing was slipped over each of the pigtails that had been soldered to the new circuit board at the factory. Next, the old pigtails were soldered to the new pigtails by paying close attention to the polarities. The pigtails on the retrofit are red and black.
Once soldered, the shrink tubing is slipped over each splice to prevent any chance of a short circuit between the meter circuit and the lighting circuit. Don’t heat gun the shrink tubing without protecting the meter movement. If the tubing is small enough, it may not be necessary to shrink the tubing at all.

Next, it was time to install the new circuit board in the rear meter housing. Care should be taken to protect the meter needle from the spliced leads when the board is installed with one screw. Once installed, any extra wire may be stuffed underneath the circuit board with a pair of long needle nose pliers.

Finally, the meter face is swung down over the rear meter housing, and the meter face is fastened to the rear meter housing with the original screws.

Once the meters have been reinstalled with the spring clips that hold the meters to the front panel, reconnect the meter wiring harnesses to the correct chassis connectors.

The next step is to fasten the top cover to the power supply with four Torx screws. Once closed up, an AC power cord may be connected and the supply may be powered up. If everything has been wired correctly and the wiring harnesses have been plugged into the correct sockets on the chassis, the meters should be illuminated with bright white light and the voltage meter should read what the supply was set to prior to disassembly. See Figure 2.

Figure 2. Astron SS-30M LED Meter Backlight Retrofit Completed. The OEM incandescent meter bulbs have been replaced with OEM LED bulbs supplied as a replacement part by Astron. It appears as though the left meter is illuminated by different color LEDs. That is not an artifact. When I checked my newer LED illuminated supply meters, the color and brightness were not a perfect match.

References:

[1] Astron Corporation, 9 Autry, Irvine, CA 92618. https://www.astroncorp.com/

[2] Ibid.  https://www.astroncorp.com/product-page/led-backlight-circuit-board

Control Your Rig Remotely With This USB-Controlled Power Station

Introduction

Remote station operation has become more popular now that several rig manufacturers offer accessories to enable the radio amateur to do so. However, there is usually a large expense associated with acquiring these accessories. For some, it may not be cost-effective to own them for occasional use. In this article, we describe a solution for remote operation from another room of your home, your yard, or while on travel. It is also convenient for controlling on/off functions in the shack with the click of the mouse. The solution revolves around a Velleman relay card that can control a number of relays from a computer desktop.

The Power Station

This article describes a USB-controlled AC power strip, Figure 1, that was built around the Velleman K8090 8-Channel Relay Board in kit-form [1]. Varistors were added to the board as a recommended option [2]. The board can also be purchased fully assembled [3].

Figure 1. USB Controlled Power Strip. Each 15A duplex outlet is under USB control. There are just enough contacts on the barrier strip for 8 relays, neutrals, and grounds.

The PC communicates to the board via USB. A free, desktop, graphical user interface (GUI) is provided by Velleman for use as test software, or you may opt to purchase an application such as N-Button Lite [4].

Some type of rig interface is required to control your rig and audio from a PC. You may use the interface in your rig if it has one, or buy or build one of your own.

In order to log onto your computer, see your desktop remotely and hear rig audio, some kind of conferencing software is required. I use TeamViewer [5] to see my desktop and hear computer audio remotely.

Cautionary Notes

You will be dealing with AC line voltage in this project. Keep the clear polycarbonate cover on the enclosure while AC power is applied. Since the Velleman card operates on 12 VDC and control is over USB, all testing can be completed prior to plugging the AC line cord into the wall socket.

The FCC requires some means to disable the transmitter within 3-minutes if something goes wrong during remote operation. Velleman makes a WMT1206 Universal Timer Module with USB Interface [6] that should prove useful for this application. Its relay can handle 8A of AC. There are also similar USB timer modules available on eBay. It’s also a good idea to have the ability to reboot your computer remotely. The exact details of how to implement this FCC requirement are left to the reader but there are plenty of suggestions to be found online.

Kit Construction

An experienced kit builder can assemble and test the board in an afternoon. The added varistors are specified at 125J, 300VAC, 385VDC, and 4500A clamping peak current [7]. If these are not readily available, there are equivalents. A suggestion was made to thicken the circuit board traces that must handle the 16A relay current with additional solder. I didn’t care for this approach and opted to solder bus wire onto these traces, instead. You might find it ludicrous to solder #14 AWG buss wire onto the board, so your other option is to derate the relay capabilities to what the conductors can safely handle since the PCB traces have not been rated. For example, the ampacity of #20 AWG buss wire is at least 5A (11A at 75°C) [8], and that will be good for 575W. None of the circuits that I run from this PCB require anywhere near 575W.  Take care not to damage the PCB traces while soldering. Excessive heat will lift the PCB traces.

Housing, Connectors, and AC Outlets

There are 8 duplex outlets in this project – each one under separate relay control. Each outlet has been wired with #14 AWG. Each relay is rated at 16A, resistive load (see the previous section for derating). The duplex outlets have been spaced far apart so that a variety of line cords and wall adapters will fit without interference. The control board is housed in a Bud Industries PN-1340-C polycarbonate enclosure [9] with a clear cover (not affixed), Figure 2. The clear cover provides visibility for the status lights on the PCB. Bud Industries also manufactures an internal aluminum panel, PNX-91440 [10], upon which the PCB and barrier strip have been mounted. Take care in locating connectors on the housing or the PCB will not fit. The PCB is fastened to the aluminum panel with 4-40 hex standoffs. The Bud Industries enclosure is fitted with 1/2-inch male terminal adapters [11] at either end. DC power for the relays enters the enclosure at the top left through a 2.1mm panel mount connector [12]. The relay power required is 12VDC at 400mA. A 12 VDC wall adapter with a 2.1mm plug can provide this voltage. AC power enters the housing through a cable gland at the lower left. Switchcraft makes the USB connector at the lower right. It converts USB A inside the enclosure to USB B on the outside. The connector was purchased from Newark [13]. The short USB jumper patch cord was purchased on Amazon [14]. A step drill [15] is the most effective way to bore the large holes in a polycarbonate or ABS case without cracking it.

Remote Control

Figure 2. Interior View of Control Board Enclosure. Eight 16A relays are visible. There’s not much space to spare. Take care in wiring the AC connections and in locating the connectors on the housing or the PCB will not fit.

Software Apps

The test software that is supplied by Velleman for the circuit card is adequate, or N-Button Lite [16] may be purchased Figure 3. A screenshot of the lower right corner of the monitor shows the buttons for N-Button Lite. The green buttons indicate that four of the eight relays are active. If you purchase the Bud enclosure with a clear polycarbonate cover as I did, you will be able to see all eight red indicator lights on the Velleman board, one for each relay. They will light when a relay becomes active.

Remote Control

Figure 3. Screenshot of PC desktop. N-Button Lite controls each of 8 relays.

References

References
[1] https://www.jameco.com/z/K8090-Velleman-8-Channel-USB-Relay-Card-Kit_2123952.html
[2] https://www.velleman.eu/products/spareparts/?code=vdr300
[3] https://www.amazon.com/Velleman-VM8090-8-Channel-Relay-Card/dp/B00CPCQ88Y
[4] https://www.serialporttool.com/GK/n-button-lite/
[5] https://www.teamviewer.com/en-us/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=us|b|pr|19|jul|Brand-TeamViewer-Exact|free|t0|0|dl|g&utm_content=TeamViewer_Exact&utm_term=teamviewer&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5ZSWBhCVARIsALERCvzZflNoCfAiFgi9STEIDiJkCtRuazuukru
[6] https://whadda.com/product/universal-timer-module-with-usb-interface-wmt206/
[7] Velleman, op. cit. https://www.velleman.eu/products/spareparts/?code=vdr300
[8] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge
[9] https://www.budind.com/product/nema-ip-rated-boxes/pn-series-nema-box/ip65-nema-4x-box-with-clear-cover-pn-1340-c/ – group=series-products&external_dimension
[10] https://www.budind.com/accessories/aluminum-internal-panel-pnx-91440/
[11]https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-in-Male-Terminal-Adapter-R5140103/202043509
[12] https://www.amazon.com/2-1mm-DC-Power-Jack-Chassis/dp/B073PKZPQ7
[13] https://www.newark.com/switchcraft-conxall/ehusbbabxpkg/usb-adapter-type-b-rcpt-a-rcpt/dp/08N9043?gclid=Cj0KCQjw5ZSWBhCVARIsALERCvycmWj-i38ykHaPrlbG8Eb-uxCyxcpZzdNWmZ0r7Z2iV9zgd7CpVKAaAh5KEALw_wcB&mckv=_dc|pcrid||plid||kword||match||slid||product|
[14] https://www.amazon.com/inch-USB-2-0-Male-Cable/dp/B079ZP65SN?th=1
[15] https://www.homedepot.com/s/step%2520drill?NCNI-5
[16] Relay Pros, op. cit. https://www.serialporttool.com/GK/n-button-lite/

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