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I’ll be hiking from the park headquarters starting at 9 AM, and then heading up via the Pine Hill trail if anyone would like to hike it.
See the trail map here.
I’ll be hiking from the park headquarters starting at 9 AM and heading up the Pine Hill trail if anyone would like to hike it.
I brought them in and I may have more in the future.
They run on 3.6v and I think that you can run them up to 14.4v if you wire 4 of them in series. I have not yet tried this.
You can always use lower voltages to achieve higher lumens per watt.
Yes, you can even post your RBN statistics on your ORZ Page:
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“I don’t understand your modulation” doesn’t make sense.
Quoting Wikipedia:
In electronics and telecommunications, <b>modulation</b> is the process of varying one or more properties of a periodic waveform, called the carrier signal, with a <b>modulating</b> signal that typically contains information to be transmitted.
If he’s trying to say that your signal is poorly modulated with regard to being understandable he’s making a ton of assumptions. How were your other responses to contacts? I suspect he had trouble receiving your signal and incorrectly blamed your modulation.
Being a snowbird, I have a lot of practice in setting wire antennas here at my Amherst QTH and down in my Salt Springs FL QTH. I use a sling shot (used to use a bow and arrow but that’s a bit scary) and a spinning reel to shoot a small weight attached to a monofilament leader line over any desirable branch, as high as you like. (Sling shot from Harbor Freight.) I tie on a nylon chalk line and “reel” it up and over the branch, to secure the “pick point”. If its a temporary setup, I tie the antenna end to the chalk line and up it goes, supported by nylon chalk line which I’ve never been able to break. If its for the full season, I use the chalk line to pull up a camo para fixed line with a plastic pulley that is pre threaded with a running line with which I raise and lower the antenna. I get the para cord from True Value County Line Stores in Milford. (They’ll order you a 500 foot spool if you ask them to. I keep a reel on hand here in NH and another at my FL QTH. ) I use mostly LNR end fed antennas so I only need one pick point and pulley set up for these, but I use the same method for raising my G5 Junior, or my 160M OCF with three or four (4) pick points for full support of the ends and the balum. I add at least one pulley and weight at/near ground level in each direction on the running lines to limit tension on the line as the trees move. This methodology may sound complex but it works great for me.
Imagine the tower laying flat with the antenna attached but rotated 90 degrees on its own long axis. Now imagine a latch mechanism on the boom that fixes the antenna in a horizontal position once the tower is raised. When the tower is up far enough to clear the elements you rotate the antenna to its latched position. The latch would need a release mechanism for rotating the antenna when the tower is dropped.
I can’t make it tomorrow but I plan on going up Mt. Monadnock today with my 6m hex beam, a new HB 6 element 2m Yagi, and extra batteries.
73,
Mike (AB1YK)
There are some interesting designs for Moxon antennas on the web. I spotted one that used a shortened element design and also offered a light weight solution – to be used on a city lot. The authors PDF presentation should provide more insight.
Here is the 40 Meter Mini-MOXON Beam Antenna presentation:
http://www.iw5edi.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/40-Meter-Mini-MOXON-Beam-Antenna.pdf
Mike
Good morning Jamey,
Thank you very much for all your help for the upcoming event.
I will be bringing an Elk 2m / 70 cm,a 6 meter dipole homebrew,and a 20 meter/40 meter SOTA beam w/mast.
I will be using a Yaesu FT 857 and will have a Yaesu VX-8DR.
For power 2-12volt batteries,and auto power where allowed.
Portable popup canopy,small table,chair.
Thank you to all,and looking forward to seeing you everyone Saturday.
73
KC1FOZ
ALM