Tag Archives: Antennas

Moxons in the Attic (Part 2)

 It has been a couple of months since I wrote about my project to build a Moxon antenna for 15 and 17 meters in the attic of my garage.  The weather has since cooled down to where I can work in the attic without sweat dripping in my eyes and my hands slipping on everything.  When I wrote about my initial measurements in the last article, I was experiencing erratic SWR readings on the 15-meter beam with the lowest SWR being around 23 MHz.  I did some recomputing and figured I would need to lengthen each element by 24 inches to bring resonance down to 21.1 MHz.  I was not too thrilled with the idea of having to solder wires in the cramped space of the attic so I decided to check the SWR behavior again.

There is an old adage in carpentry that says measure twice, cut once.  The same applies for adjusting antenna elements except “twice” becomes “until consistent”.  When I connected my analyzer to the 15-meter beam, I did the flex test of the connecting cable.  Lo and behold, the SWR started jumping around.  I checked the connector hardware and noticed the PL-259 reducer shell was loose.  Once I tightened it, I found the resonant point to be way down at 19.0 MHz.  My antenna was too long; it would have to be SHORTENED by 24 inches.

Armed with the new readings, I shortened each element accordingly and measured the antenna again.  My efforts paid off with a reading of 1.1:1 at 21.2 MHz and a 2:1 bandwidth from 20.8 to 22.78 MHz.  I was now ready to move on to final installation.

I needed more coax, a couple of baluns, and a remote antenna switch to complete the project.  A hamfest scheduled for the first weekend in October in Melbourne, FL looked like a good prospect for finding what I needed.  Unfortunately, Hurricane Matthew had other plans and forced a postponement of two weeks.  When I attended the hamfest, many vendors were absent due to conflicting plans so pickings were slim.  I did manage to find the baluns and more coax but the switch would have to be ordered.

I found an Ameritron RCS-4 online at a reasonable price and ordered it.  I had used this model for many years when in NH so I was familiar with its reliability.  When the switch arrived, I hooked it up to check it out before installing it.  Murphy said hello to me with a non-functioning control unit.  I called the company I bought it from and they arranged to have it returned for a replacement.  I finally received a working unit two days before Thanksgiving.  With the CQ WW CW contest coming up, it came just in time.

I routed a 50-foot run of coax from my shack around the front of the house and into the garage attic.  Figure 1 shows the coax run.  If you can’t see it, good; I do not want the Village Vigilantes to come knocking on the door to question the aesthetics of the cable.  Figure 2 shows a closer view of the coax entering my attic.  So far, the XYL hasn’t noticed it so I’m safe.

Stealth Antenna - Coax Run Across Front of House
Figure 1. Coax Run Across Front of House
Stealth Antenna - Coax into the Attic (Upper Left)
Figure 2. Coax into the Attic (Upper Left)

The next step involved hooking up the baluns and the remote switch which was a straightforward process.  Once everything was in place, I fired up the rig on 17 meters and found a spot for UA0ZC.  I was happy to hear him and gave Val a call.  A minute later I had a rare one in the log without having to hammer away indefinitely.  I checked 15 meters and did not find much activity.  The operational SWR was a bit higher than my measurements but still under 2:1.

At least, it started out that way.  I got on the air the next day and found the SWR on 15 meters hitting 6:1 and higher.  I made a trip up to the attic to find out what was going on.  At first glance, nothing appeared amiss.  I plugged the analyzer into the 15-meter beam and noticed the SWR jumping around.  Flexing the cable made some difference but not much.  My initial thought had been some incomplete switching in the switch unit but the SWR behavior when directly connected to the analyzer ruled that out.  I tried swapping baluns between the two beams to no avail.  With other pressing holiday matters to attend to, I decided to remove a balun from the 17-meter beam in favor of the 15-meter beam.  (During my troubleshooting efforts, I noticed the 17-meter beam behaved as designed, with or without a balun.)  The 15-meter beam shows no discernible difference in performance with or without the balun.  Figure 3 shows the present feed point installation with the switch on the attic floor.

Figure 3. Feed Points and Switch
Figure 3. Feed Points and Switch

I have to admit that I am stumped at this point.  There is some consolation, however, in that my K3 tuner easily matches up the 6:1 SWR imbalance.  I imagine there is interaction with the other structures in the attic (house wiring, AC ducts, 17-meter beams, etc.) that are making a good match difficult to achieve.  At any rate, I am happy to have a worthwhile antenna for 17 meters vice my low inverted V.  As the sunspots continue to degrade, 17 meters may well end up as the MUF.

Ed, K2TE

 

Yagi Antenna Teaching Construct Part #3: Directional Gain and Front to Back Ratio

In this final article of our series on the “Lego-style” antenna for teaching basic antenna physics and behavior, our focus is a Yagi-Uda 3-element antenna for 2 meters. The Yagi antenna is the most common construction form for a “beam” antenna. The Yagi has high gain in one specific compass (azimuth) direction and very low gain in the opposite direction when compared to the classic 1/2 wave dipole. The Directional Forward Gain and “Front to Back” Ratio (F/B Ratio) features are hallmarks of the Yagi and the reasons for its high popularity. The forward gain dramatically increases “Effective Radiated Power” in a chosen direction; the Front to Back Ratio dramatically reduces interference from signals to the antenna’s backside.

BASIC PRINCIPLE OF THE 3-ELEMENT YAGI ANTENNA

The Yagi antenna shown in the Feature Picture above has 3 radiating elements. The center element (with the coax attached) is the “Driven Element” (DE) receiving RF energy from the transmitter.  The other two elements are “parasitic”, meaning they are not connected to the transmitter. These elements absorb energy from the DE RF wave and re-radiate it by Faraday’s Law of Induction. This fact gives both parasitic elements a 180-degree phase shift relative to the DE. In the above picture, the left side element is the Reflector, typically 5% longer than the DE; the right side element is the Director, typically 5% shorter than the DE.  The length differences make both elements slightly off resonance to the DE RF wave which adds a second phase shift relative to the DE. Finally, the distances on the boom between the DE and parasitic elements adds a third phase shift since it takes a finite time for the DE wave to reach the Reflector and Director.  The distance between the DE and the parasitic elements vary between 0.1 to 0.25 wavelengths depending on materials, construction details and design goals for the forward gain and F/B Ratio.

The Yagi secret is that the sum of these three phase shifts for the 3 elements add in a way that reinforces each other for RF energy moving towards the Director. However, RF waves moving towards the Reflector combine in a way that subtracts and leaves little RF energy.

Figure 2 provides an illustration of this action using only waves interacting between the DE and Director, for simplicity.

Yagi Antenna PhasingFigure 2.  Summing RF wave from the Driven Element with the Induced wave from the Director Element (from Wikipedia, Yagi-Uda Antenna)

The DE RF wave (in green) reaches the Director parasitic element and induces a second RF wave (in blue) by Faraday’s Law. The multiple phase shifts that make up the Director RF wave gives a forward moving emission that adds to the DE wave yielding a combined larger RF wave.  However, the Director RF wave moving back towards the Reflector is nearly 180 degrees out of phase to the DE wave and the two nearly cancel each other out.  A similar analysis at the Reflector element shows that Reflector waves moving towards the DE and Director also adds to their waves to create an even larger wave. However, Reflector waves traveling off the rear of the antenna subtract with waves arriving from the DE and Director yielding very little RF energy leaving the backside direction of the antenna.

THE TOOLBOX FOR OUR EXPERIMENTS

The top Feature Picture shows the “Lego-Style” antenna in a Yagi assembly and the Lamp Bridge Receiver ½ wave dipole antenna is seen in the upper right corner. The Lamp Bridge Receiver lights when resonant RF is sensed and we used this tool in both Parts 1 and 2 of this article series.

New to our toolbox is a breadboard circuit to measure RF power in a semi-quantitative way using an LED Bar Graph display. The breadboard was built on an Analog/Digital Trainer Module and is seen in the lower right corner. The circuit samples the RF signal received by a 1/4 wave antenna (black antenna seen behind and above the breadboard). The induced RF current is converted to a dc voltage that feeds to a 30-stage linear increasing voltage comparator circuit.  A comparator turns on an LED when its voltage threshold value is reached. Our circuit is using only 15 LEDs due to breadboard space limits; however, by skipping every other comparator we are still measuring a 30 fold signal range. The picture shows 3 lit LEDs indicating a sensed voltage that is one-fifth the dynamic range of the circuit.

EFFECTIVE RADIATED POWER: COMPARING THE DIPOLE and YAGI-UDA ANTENNAS

A)  BASIC DIPOLE PERFORMANCE

We will use the classic 1/2 wave dipole as the benchmark to assess benefits of the 3-element Yagi-Uda antenna.  We begin by measuring relative radiated power of the dipole as we increase transmitter power stepwise between 5, 10, 20 and 40 watts.  The power detector circuit consists of a standard 1/4 wave stub antenna connected to the LED Bar Graph RF meter.  The results will be used to “calibrate” the detector circuit and be our reference point when we calculate Yagi Gain.

The video below explains the use of the LED Bar Graph RF meter; then it shows the actual testing protocol and you can see the LEDs report received RF signal as we increase Tx power to the dipole.

The results of received RF signal versus transmitter power for the dipole antenna are summarized in Table 1.  The data show a close to linear correlation (as expected) within the semi-quantitative limits of the Bar Graph Display.

 

Display Calibration

B)  3-ELEMENT YAGI PERFORMANCE

The next video shows the antenna forward radiated power as we stepwise build the Yagi beginning with the basic dipole; the addition of the Reflector element and a third addition of the Director element.  Note, the Tx power is constant at 5 watts.  Details of the Yagi construction (element lengths, spacing, etc.) are given in the video.

The data for the RF radiation received with the stepwise addition of elements to assemble the YAGI antenna are summarized in Table 2.

Yagi Antenna ERP

There is a significant increase in antenna forward received signal (looking towards the direction of the Director) as we add the two parasitic elements.  The signal increases by 3+ fold with the Reflector over the dipole and then by 7+ fold for the combination of Reflector plus Director. However, we want to translate the results to customary power level values in decibels.  The combined data of Tables 1 and 2 let us do this as an estimate of Directional Forward Power.

Gain for 2-Element  Antenna in dB:
7 Lit LEDs at 20 watts for dipole and 5 watts  for Yagi
dB  =  10 x Log(20/5)  =  6.0 dB  (= 1 S meter unit)

Gain for 3-Element Yagi in dB:
15 Lit LEDs at 40 watts for dipole and 5 watts for Yagi
dB  =  10 x Log(40/5)  =  9.0 dB  (= 1.5 S meter units)

THE FRONT TO BACK RATIO OF EFFECTIVE RADIATED POWER FOR THE 3 ELEMENT YAGI ANTENNA.

A)  THE 1/2 WAVE DIPOLE

We begin our experiments on Front to Back received power using the basic 1/2 wave dipole as we did above for forward radiated power.  However, since the dipole is symmetric side to side we will label our measurements as “left side” and “right side” to the wire axis. Second, our dipole experiment will use the Lamp Bridge Receiver antenna because we will use power levels not requiring amplification (the LED Bar Graph RF meter has a 10x gain built-in). Also, resetting the LED RF meter at the opposite table end is not easy.

The 2-sided picture below shows the responses of the Lamp Bridge Receiver antenna to a 40-watt transmission.  Picture 1A shows the received signal on the left side of the dipole; Picture 1B shows the response on the right side of the dipole.

Yagi Antenna Pattern

As you would expect, the radiated power of a basic 1/2 wave dipole appears equal broadside to the wire axis, as we learned in the Technician License Class.

B)  The 3-Element YAGI-UDA Antenna.

Our last video has a simple experiment showing the Front to Back Ratio effect of the Yagi antenna for radiated power parallel to the boom axis.  We return to using the LED Bar Graph RF meter for the experiment. The study is made easy by the simple trick of swapping placement of the Reflector and Director elements, a benefit of the “Lego-Style” construction of our antenna model.         

The study results are striking.  The data for the Forward RF signal from the Yagi showed an 8x fold increase over the basic dipole with 15 lit LEDs at 5 watts for the Yagi versus the dipole needing 40 watts to elicit the same response. We also saw this result in Video 2 (compare data in Tables 1 and 2). In contrast, the received Back-Side RF signal gave only 1 lit LED.  The difference merits visual repetition with a paired picture display.

Yagi Antenna Pattern

We can transform this data to estimate dB Power Gain of the Back-Side signal in a similar fashion as the Directional Forward Gain.  Again, we use data from Tables 1 and 2.  However, we need to interpolate the signal response of the Yagi Back-Side signal of 1 LED with the 2 LED response for a dipole at 5 watts. The factor is 1/3, not 1/2. Why?   Remember, the RF detector circuit divides the received signal into 30 equal size buckets, but we only look in every other bucket with an LED.  Hence, LED #2 measures the third bucket, not the second bucket.   I will repeat the Forward Gain calculation here to make the result comparison easier.

Forward Gain for 3-Element Yagi in dB:
15 Lit LEDs at 40 watts for dipole and 5 watts for Yagi
dB  =  10 x Log (40/5)  =  9.0 dB   (1.5 S meter units)

Backside Gain for 3 Element Yagi in dB:
1 LED (Yagi) = 1/3 (5 watts) =1.7 watts
dB  =  10 x Log (1.7/5 )  =  –  4.6  dB

We now can easily calculate the Yagi Front to Back Ratio:
F/B Ratio  dB  =  9.0  dB  –  (-) 4.6 dB  =  13.6  dB
(Remember, dB is a logarithm value, so we subtract the 2 numbers, not divide them)

C)  Results Analysis

The result of 9.0 dB for Yagi Forward Gain is likely high considering an expected typical range of 6 to 8 dB (seen in commercial units).  The estimate for the F/B  Ratio of 13.6 dB seems low, again based on typical commercial units that can have an F/B of about 20 dB.  However, the cited values are for “Far Field — Free Space” conditions; conditions not simulated in a 20 x 20 ft. room in my house.  Also, the experiments made no effort to optimize Forward Gain or the F/B Ratio by element lengths and spacing.

The list of experimental error sources in our studies are many; a partial list includes detector circuit layout that combined RF, digital and DC signals on one board, the accuracy and precision limits of discrete LEDs, antenna height above ground issues and wall-plus-apparatus surfaces that both absorbed and reflected RF signals.

Still, the “Lego Style” Yagi Antenna Assembly permits an easy way to demonstrate many basic antenna properties while showing performance results that are reasonable.  Perhaps, the next ham adventurer to design Version #3 will expand experimental versatility and improve performance areas.

I hope this series of three articles has expanded antenna knowledge to newly minted hams and has re-kindled interest in antenna experimentation for more experienced hams (many more knowledgeable than me).  Coming full circle to my thoughts as I began this article series, our antennas are the magic carpet that we ride over the airwaves whether to friends across town or to that rare DX station 10,000 miles away.  Enjoy the Ride!

I owe a heartily thank you to Skip Youngberg (K1NKR) for reviewing my draft manuscript for Part #3 and contributing valued suggestions. Also, the complete series of three articles could not have happened without the multi-media assistance, encouragement and full support from a special YL, Teresa Mendoza.

73,

Dave N1RF

Hang ‘Em High

Dick Powell, WK1J

A Little about me

At 75 yrs old, I have a modest station, consisting of a Mosely TA33 Tri-bander (circa 1986) on a homebrew mount, at the peak on my single-level home (45ft.) and a homebrew 160-80-40M inverted Vee at 65ft. I wound all the loading coils for the 80M and 160M traps and it performs very well and takes only 10 ft. more space than a typical 80M inverted Vee dipole (excellent for 160M on a city sized lot). I plan to write an article on its construction in the future.

I have worked 90 countries on 160M, 96 on 80M and 303 on 40M with only 100 Watts output with this antenna. I am fortunate to be at 840 ft. above Sea Level with a clear shot to Europe, South America, and the Caribbean. Japan is workable but I struggle to get through west coast stations to Asia and the Pacific. Four more confirmed countries on 80M and I will have worked 5Band-DXCC with 100W, proof that at my age, you don’t need a tower, kilowatt and the latest, greatest radio, although they make the challenge easier.

This summer I started in earnest to revamp my “small pistol” station, knowing that the sun spots are declining and that I needed to improve my low band 160m, 80m and 40M transmitting antennas. As well as my ability to hear weak signals better with the increased noise on the bands.

Latest Project: Beverages and 9-Circle Receiving Array (an article coming in the future)

This summer, I worked on improving my ability to receive weak signals by building switchable, (bi-directional) beverage antennas for NE/SW, NW/SE and E/W, switchable from my operating position. You know what they say. “If you can’t hear them, you can’t work them!”

Currently, I am in the final stages of building and deploying a 9 circle receiving array developed by the Yankee Clipper Contest Club of which I am a member. Note: The components are now offered as a kit in partnership with DXEngineering, with DXE supplying all the interconnecting cables and phasing lines. My preliminary tests show a significant improvement (8db better signal RX strength and lower noise floor by 2S units) over the beverages and it is steerable every 45 degrees. The ability to null out interference is unbelievable even when compared to the beverages. Now I need to work them! I am currently building a 160M/80M “double L”(no ground radials needed), separate 40M and 80M Delta Loops, replacing my older dipoles. I hope to have these in place by CQWW SSB later this month.

Now this Article: – Antenna Launcher

How to get these new wire antennas hung from the many tall pine trees on the property? In the past, I have used a sling shot to get dipoles up but usually only 50-60 ft. consistently.

I read with interest the recent article that Brian, AB1ZO wrote: “I can’t believe my antenna’s up!” Seeing the pictures of the method he used to toss a line over the tree got me to thinking about a better approach. I wanted something reliable, easy to use, easy to make (not buy), and portable in the woods, no electricity/batteries, no butane and spark ignitors (I would probably cause a large forest fire, hi!). In other words “a field day” type solution. I also recalled Dennis, K1LGQ’s presentation on the “potato launcher” he demonstrated at project night.

I viewed many YouTube videos and found a lot of excellent approaches. I settled on a pneumatic (compressed air) approach. I designed the antenna launcher to be very compact, most were quite long and not ideal for trudging through dense woods. By no means is this approach unique, but it is proving to be very reliable, cheap (less than $60 in materials, if purchased) and can easily reach heights of over 150ft. I use a simple bicycle tire pump (found for $25 on eBay) to fill the compression chamber. A compressed C02 air refill canister for a Paintball gun or a battery operated car tire pump would also work.

This is a picture of the completed Antenna Launcher. It took 2, 4 hour days to complete as I waited 24 hours to ensure the PVC cement cured in the pressure chamber (important safety step). I chose to spray paint it and added labeling.

Final Antenna Launcher

I build the launcher in 4 main sections:

  1. Pressure Chamber
  2. A Modified Inline Irrigation Valve
  3. U section (for a compact design)
  4. Launching Tube

Step 1 – Pressure Chamber

I looked at both 3in. and 2in PCV schedule 40 Pipe. The box stores do not carry 3in PVC rated for pressure applications. Some videos on YouTube do use it; I chose the 2in for safety reasons (max. 280psi).

Below is a picture of the pieces needed to assemble the pressure chamber, including the tire (Schrader) valve and pressure gauge (optional). I opted to have the pressure gauge on the chamber when filling it, rather than having to read one located on a tire pump, I blame the bifocals, it couldn’t be old age!

Antenna Launcher Pressure Chamber

The next 5 pictures show the progression of the assembly. For brevity, (in this article) the pictures will give you a reasonable idea of the construction. I plan to create an accompanying (downloadable) PDF document detailing all the steps with instructions.

Antenna Launcher Pressure Chamber Details

Antenna Launcher Pressure Chamber Details

Antenna Launcher Pressure Chamber Details

Antenna Launcher Pressure Chamber Details

Step 2 – In-line sprinkler Valve Modifications

This picture shows the parts needed to modify a common irrigation valve for air pressure vs electrical use. A good YouTube video of modifying the Rain Bird HD 1 in. valve can be found at https://youtu.be/A3EOdNP6Iag

Antenna Launcher Value Mods

The next 7 pictures show the detailed progression of the modification. They may be a little easier to see than in the video.

Antenna Launcher Value Mods

Antenna Launcher Value Mods

Antenna Launcher Value Mods

Antenna Launcher Value Mods

Antenna Launcher Value Mods

Antenna Launcher Value Mods

Antenna Launcher Value Mods

Step 3 – The “U” Assembly (or let’s turn the corner!)

I wanted the launcher to be as compact as possible for better portability and chose to assemble some pipe to make a “U” turn, prior to installing the actual launch tube.

Antenna Launcher U-Turn

The following 2 picture shows the detail of the assembly of the U-turn.

Antenna Launcher U-Turn

Antenna Launcher U-Turn

Step 4 – The launcher’s “business end” where all the work gets done…

Final Antenna Launcher

Conclusion:

I hope I haven’t put you to sleep by now. This was a fun project and it works really well and will last for many trips into the woods in the future. There are very few mechanical parts which could fail (only the inline valve and blow gun) and the selection of higher PSI PVC ensures a good degree of safety, even if over inflated a little. The inline valve is the “weak link” so to speak, rated at 100psi max.

Now to go and “Hang ‘Em High”

73 Dick, WK1J

Questions: [email protected]      [email protected]

 

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