Category Archives: Homebrewing

Articles and other information related to Homebrewing, station building, kit building, and other custom Ham Radio projects.

Tech Night – 40m QRP CW Pixie Kit

Abby at Tech Night - Building her Pixie KitConnor (KC1GGX) and myself (Abby-AB1BY) both participated in the club’s November Tech Night. Our mission for the night was to build a 40m QRP CW Pixie Kit. Going in I was nervous – I had never soldered before – and wasn’t sure if I would understand how to put it together. Connor had done some soldering and was feeling more confident.

 

When we walked into the room Brian (AB1ZO) had all the kits neatly set out for everyone so we could get right to work. We opened the kits and instructions and I was overwhelmed! Thankfully we had some very experienced Elmers to help us out. Bill (K1TWO) and Charlie (AB1ZN) were extremely helpful in improving our soldering techniques and figuring out what went where. At first, I was very slow and asked a lot of questions, but as the night went on I think my technique got better and things went faster.

 

Connor at Tech Night - Building his Pixie KitWe worked the whole time and were the last two to finish, but when it came time to test our kits out they both worked! I was very proud of myself and learned a lot. Connor also had a great time and wants to do another project with soldering!

 

Brian at Tech Night -Testing His Pixie Kit

We would like to thank Brian and everyone involved for putting this fun tech night together.

Abby, AB1BY

Moxons in the Attic (Part 2)

 It has been a couple of months since I wrote about my project to build a Moxon antenna for 15 and 17 meters in the attic of my garage.  The weather has since cooled down to where I can work in the attic without sweat dripping in my eyes and my hands slipping on everything.  When I wrote about my initial measurements in the last article, I was experiencing erratic SWR readings on the 15-meter beam with the lowest SWR being around 23 MHz.  I did some recomputing and figured I would need to lengthen each element by 24 inches to bring resonance down to 21.1 MHz.  I was not too thrilled with the idea of having to solder wires in the cramped space of the attic so I decided to check the SWR behavior again.

There is an old adage in carpentry that says measure twice, cut once.  The same applies for adjusting antenna elements except “twice” becomes “until consistent”.  When I connected my analyzer to the 15-meter beam, I did the flex test of the connecting cable.  Lo and behold, the SWR started jumping around.  I checked the connector hardware and noticed the PL-259 reducer shell was loose.  Once I tightened it, I found the resonant point to be way down at 19.0 MHz.  My antenna was too long; it would have to be SHORTENED by 24 inches.

Armed with the new readings, I shortened each element accordingly and measured the antenna again.  My efforts paid off with a reading of 1.1:1 at 21.2 MHz and a 2:1 bandwidth from 20.8 to 22.78 MHz.  I was now ready to move on to final installation.

I needed more coax, a couple of baluns, and a remote antenna switch to complete the project.  A hamfest scheduled for the first weekend in October in Melbourne, FL looked like a good prospect for finding what I needed.  Unfortunately, Hurricane Matthew had other plans and forced a postponement of two weeks.  When I attended the hamfest, many vendors were absent due to conflicting plans so pickings were slim.  I did manage to find the baluns and more coax but the switch would have to be ordered.

I found an Ameritron RCS-4 online at a reasonable price and ordered it.  I had used this model for many years when in NH so I was familiar with its reliability.  When the switch arrived, I hooked it up to check it out before installing it.  Murphy said hello to me with a non-functioning control unit.  I called the company I bought it from and they arranged to have it returned for a replacement.  I finally received a working unit two days before Thanksgiving.  With the CQ WW CW contest coming up, it came just in time.

I routed a 50-foot run of coax from my shack around the front of the house and into the garage attic.  Figure 1 shows the coax run.  If you can’t see it, good; I do not want the Village Vigilantes to come knocking on the door to question the aesthetics of the cable.  Figure 2 shows a closer view of the coax entering my attic.  So far, the XYL hasn’t noticed it so I’m safe.

Stealth Antenna - Coax Run Across Front of House
Figure 1. Coax Run Across Front of House
Stealth Antenna - Coax into the Attic (Upper Left)
Figure 2. Coax into the Attic (Upper Left)

The next step involved hooking up the baluns and the remote switch which was a straightforward process.  Once everything was in place, I fired up the rig on 17 meters and found a spot for UA0ZC.  I was happy to hear him and gave Val a call.  A minute later I had a rare one in the log without having to hammer away indefinitely.  I checked 15 meters and did not find much activity.  The operational SWR was a bit higher than my measurements but still under 2:1.

At least, it started out that way.  I got on the air the next day and found the SWR on 15 meters hitting 6:1 and higher.  I made a trip up to the attic to find out what was going on.  At first glance, nothing appeared amiss.  I plugged the analyzer into the 15-meter beam and noticed the SWR jumping around.  Flexing the cable made some difference but not much.  My initial thought had been some incomplete switching in the switch unit but the SWR behavior when directly connected to the analyzer ruled that out.  I tried swapping baluns between the two beams to no avail.  With other pressing holiday matters to attend to, I decided to remove a balun from the 17-meter beam in favor of the 15-meter beam.  (During my troubleshooting efforts, I noticed the 17-meter beam behaved as designed, with or without a balun.)  The 15-meter beam shows no discernible difference in performance with or without the balun.  Figure 3 shows the present feed point installation with the switch on the attic floor.

Figure 3. Feed Points and Switch
Figure 3. Feed Points and Switch

I have to admit that I am stumped at this point.  There is some consolation, however, in that my K3 tuner easily matches up the 6:1 SWR imbalance.  I imagine there is interaction with the other structures in the attic (house wiring, AC ducts, 17-meter beams, etc.) that are making a good match difficult to achieve.  At any rate, I am happy to have a worthwhile antenna for 17 meters vice my low inverted V.  As the sunspots continue to degrade, 17 meters may well end up as the MUF.

Ed, K2TE

 

Hang ‘Em High

Dick Powell, WK1J

A Little about me

At 75 yrs old, I have a modest station, consisting of a Mosely TA33 Tri-bander (circa 1986) on a homebrew mount, at the peak on my single-level home (45ft.) and a homebrew 160-80-40M inverted Vee at 65ft. I wound all the loading coils for the 80M and 160M traps and it performs very well and takes only 10 ft. more space than a typical 80M inverted Vee dipole (excellent for 160M on a city sized lot). I plan to write an article on its construction in the future.

I have worked 90 countries on 160M, 96 on 80M and 303 on 40M with only 100 Watts output with this antenna. I am fortunate to be at 840 ft. above Sea Level with a clear shot to Europe, South America, and the Caribbean. Japan is workable but I struggle to get through west coast stations to Asia and the Pacific. Four more confirmed countries on 80M and I will have worked 5Band-DXCC with 100W, proof that at my age, you don’t need a tower, kilowatt and the latest, greatest radio, although they make the challenge easier.

This summer I started in earnest to revamp my “small pistol” station, knowing that the sun spots are declining and that I needed to improve my low band 160m, 80m and 40M transmitting antennas. As well as my ability to hear weak signals better with the increased noise on the bands.

Latest Project: Beverages and 9-Circle Receiving Array (an article coming in the future)

This summer, I worked on improving my ability to receive weak signals by building switchable, (bi-directional) beverage antennas for NE/SW, NW/SE and E/W, switchable from my operating position. You know what they say. “If you can’t hear them, you can’t work them!”

Currently, I am in the final stages of building and deploying a 9 circle receiving array developed by the Yankee Clipper Contest Club of which I am a member. Note: The components are now offered as a kit in partnership with DXEngineering, with DXE supplying all the interconnecting cables and phasing lines. My preliminary tests show a significant improvement (8db better signal RX strength and lower noise floor by 2S units) over the beverages and it is steerable every 45 degrees. The ability to null out interference is unbelievable even when compared to the beverages. Now I need to work them! I am currently building a 160M/80M “double L”(no ground radials needed), separate 40M and 80M Delta Loops, replacing my older dipoles. I hope to have these in place by CQWW SSB later this month.

Now this Article: – Antenna Launcher

How to get these new wire antennas hung from the many tall pine trees on the property? In the past, I have used a sling shot to get dipoles up but usually only 50-60 ft. consistently.

I read with interest the recent article that Brian, AB1ZO wrote: “I can’t believe my antenna’s up!” Seeing the pictures of the method he used to toss a line over the tree got me to thinking about a better approach. I wanted something reliable, easy to use, easy to make (not buy), and portable in the woods, no electricity/batteries, no butane and spark ignitors (I would probably cause a large forest fire, hi!). In other words “a field day” type solution. I also recalled Dennis, K1LGQ’s presentation on the “potato launcher” he demonstrated at project night.

I viewed many YouTube videos and found a lot of excellent approaches. I settled on a pneumatic (compressed air) approach. I designed the antenna launcher to be very compact, most were quite long and not ideal for trudging through dense woods. By no means is this approach unique, but it is proving to be very reliable, cheap (less than $60 in materials, if purchased) and can easily reach heights of over 150ft. I use a simple bicycle tire pump (found for $25 on eBay) to fill the compression chamber. A compressed C02 air refill canister for a Paintball gun or a battery operated car tire pump would also work.

This is a picture of the completed Antenna Launcher. It took 2, 4 hour days to complete as I waited 24 hours to ensure the PVC cement cured in the pressure chamber (important safety step). I chose to spray paint it and added labeling.

Final Antenna Launcher

I build the launcher in 4 main sections:

  1. Pressure Chamber
  2. A Modified Inline Irrigation Valve
  3. U section (for a compact design)
  4. Launching Tube

Step 1 – Pressure Chamber

I looked at both 3in. and 2in PCV schedule 40 Pipe. The box stores do not carry 3in PVC rated for pressure applications. Some videos on YouTube do use it; I chose the 2in for safety reasons (max. 280psi).

Below is a picture of the pieces needed to assemble the pressure chamber, including the tire (Schrader) valve and pressure gauge (optional). I opted to have the pressure gauge on the chamber when filling it, rather than having to read one located on a tire pump, I blame the bifocals, it couldn’t be old age!

Antenna Launcher Pressure Chamber

The next 5 pictures show the progression of the assembly. For brevity, (in this article) the pictures will give you a reasonable idea of the construction. I plan to create an accompanying (downloadable) PDF document detailing all the steps with instructions.

Antenna Launcher Pressure Chamber Details

Antenna Launcher Pressure Chamber Details

Antenna Launcher Pressure Chamber Details

Antenna Launcher Pressure Chamber Details

Step 2 – In-line sprinkler Valve Modifications

This picture shows the parts needed to modify a common irrigation valve for air pressure vs electrical use. A good YouTube video of modifying the Rain Bird HD 1 in. valve can be found at https://youtu.be/A3EOdNP6Iag

Antenna Launcher Value Mods

The next 7 pictures show the detailed progression of the modification. They may be a little easier to see than in the video.

Antenna Launcher Value Mods

Antenna Launcher Value Mods

Antenna Launcher Value Mods

Antenna Launcher Value Mods

Antenna Launcher Value Mods

Antenna Launcher Value Mods

Antenna Launcher Value Mods

Step 3 – The “U” Assembly (or let’s turn the corner!)

I wanted the launcher to be as compact as possible for better portability and chose to assemble some pipe to make a “U” turn, prior to installing the actual launch tube.

Antenna Launcher U-Turn

The following 2 picture shows the detail of the assembly of the U-turn.

Antenna Launcher U-Turn

Antenna Launcher U-Turn

Step 4 – The launcher’s “business end” where all the work gets done…

Final Antenna Launcher

Conclusion:

I hope I haven’t put you to sleep by now. This was a fun project and it works really well and will last for many trips into the woods in the future. There are very few mechanical parts which could fail (only the inline valve and blow gun) and the selection of higher PSI PVC ensures a good degree of safety, even if over inflated a little. The inline valve is the “weak link” so to speak, rated at 100psi max.

Now to go and “Hang ‘Em High”

73 Dick, WK1J

Questions: [email protected]      [email protected]

 

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