Category Archives: Antennas

Articles about Antennas, Feedlines, Towers and related equipment. Fixed, Portable and Mobile Antenna Articles are included.

Moxons in the Attic (Part 1)

A few months ago, I wrote an article on building a stealth antenna farm. Since I live in the land of CC&Rs, antennas must be “dual use” such as a vertical hidden inside a PVC flagpole, or low dipoles and inverted Vees hidden in trees. I spent many years as an avid contester and DX-chaser to appreciate the logic of stacked beams on towers to enhance the thrill of the hunt. Thanks to Layne, AE1N, I checked out the website of Jeff, AC0C (www.acoc.com) for some ideas of how to build a multi-band station in one’s attic without the condo association vigilantes running him out of town. Jeff spent countless hours crawling around his attic to construct multi-element antennas for 160 through 6 meters. Spurred on by Jeff’s success, I decided to explore the attic of my garage to see what I could do. As I described in the MAY Nashua ARC bulletin, I settled on building Moxon antennas for 15 and 17 meters.

An old adage about antenna building states that an antenna must be built-in lousy weather in order to work right. Thirty years in New Hampshire lent credence to this axiom as I spent many a cold, windy day on a tower doing antenna work. In Florida, a similar law applies: build an antenna in the summer months while sweating profusely rather than during the comfortable winter weather. Again this makes sense: DX and contesting fill up the winter months to have time to mess with antennas. It is also important to remember that, during such endeavors, you will become enamored with you antenna as you take breaks to warm your body (in NH) or drink a gallon of water (in FL), all the while cursing this law of antenna building.

But I’m getting ahead of myself. My garage attic is roughly 20 x 20 feet with an apex of about five feet that runs north-south. I had selected the Moxon design because a conventional 2-element beam would not fit in the space available. I elected to build a Moxon for 15 and 17 meters that would fit in the space available without having to encounter obstacles like the ventilation duct work. I was also fortunate in that my home is one of the older models that do not have foil-backed insulation inside the roof that creates a radiation-proof box. The joists junctions are reinforced with metal plates as part of hurricane building codes. My plan was to attach the wires to the roof trusses and stay away from these plates as much as possible to avoid interaction.

The 17-meter Moxon is a little over seven feet between elements while the 15-meter Moxon is about six feet between elements. I used a piece of half-inch PVC pipe as a template to mark the joists for the 17-meter antenna. The antenna is about 2.5 feet above the attic floor for a total height of eleven feet above the ground. I had modeled it at 13 feet so I figured it would be close enough. The 15-meter Moxon is about 15 inches above the 17-meter one. When viewed from the top, the antennas look like concentric rectangular loops.

Over the course of several weeks, I grunted, groaned and sweated my way back and forth measuring and installing the wires. I worked during the morning hours before I was soaked before 10:00 AM. I found myself wishing I could have my five-year-old grandson help me. He can stand upright and is plenty flexible to maneuver around the joists. While I did not have to worry about the obvious safety issue of working on a tower, I did at times feel I was a candidate for the NFL concussion protocol from bumping my head. I tried using my cycling helmet but it interfered with my headlamp. Another similarity to tower work is that I had to make N trips back and forth in the attic for stuff I forgot. This is, however, much more bearable that climbing up and down a tower to get what I forgot.

Figure 1 shows a view toward the south end of the attic. The two pieces of PVC form the element separators for the 15-meter Moxon (top wire) and the 17-meter Moxon (bottom wire).

Figure 1 – Moxon Element Separators, 15m (top) & 17m (bottom)
Figure 1 – Moxon Element Separators, 15m (top) & 17m (bottom)

Figure 2 shows the reflector elements for each antenna as secured to the joists, looking north through the attic. The white standoff fasteners are coax cable tie-downs that I found at the hardware store. Standard house wiring fasteners would have worked but they leave little room for pulling wires if I needed to make adjustments. (My first attempt was to use duct tape to hold the elements up. However, the heat soon made them droop.)

Figure 2 – Moxon Reflector Elements, 15 m (top) & 17m (bottom)
Figure 2 – Moxon Reflector Elements, 15 m (top) & 17m (bottom)

Figure 3 shows one corner of the director of each antenna looking east. The duct work to the left is part of the ventilation system while the open duct vents directly from the garage below. The yellow fence standoff on the upper antenna is the bend point for one end of the 15-meter director. Not visible to the left is a similar bend point for the 17-meter director.

Stealth Antenna - Looking East-from the Reflectors
Figure 3 – Looking East-from the Reflectors

Figure 4 shows the temporary feed points for each antenna.

Stealth Antenna – Feedpoint for 15m (top) & 17m (bottom)
Figure 4 – Feedpoint for 15m (top) & 17m (bottom)

The figures above show the project to date. I installed the 17-meter antenna first and measured its SWR performance with my analyzer. I found that it resonated beautifully at 16.7 MHz with a 1.1:1 SWR while bulging to 3.9:1 at 18.1 MHz. I shortened each element by a foot and ran measurements again, this time the resonant point moved up to 17.3 MHz (1.3:1 SWR) and the SWR at 18.1 MHz dropped to 2.7:1. I folded the elements back another four inches on each end and measured the response. I observed the SWR bottoming out at 1.5:1 at 18.1 MHz where I wanted to be. As a point of interest, I modeled a Moxon designed for 16.7 MHz and noticed the elements were about two feet longer than a Moxon designed for 18.1 MHz, close to the twenty inches I had to shorten the elements. Apparently, there is some interaction with the wiring that runs along the attic floor near the edges.

Armed with the satisfaction I was on the right track, I installed the 15-meter Moxon above the 17-meter antenna. I hooked up the analyzer and fired it up only to find to that its “resonant” point was a dismal 3.0:1 SWR at 22.9 MHz, rising to 3.9:1 at 21.1 MHz. This meant my antenna was too short. I went back to EZNEC, opened the standard dipole model and plugged in 22.9 MHz and found that its length was very close to the overall driven element for a Moxon designed for 21.1 MHz. I lengthened each element by five inches as a starting point to see what would happen. The result was no change in SWR at 22.9 MHz while dropping slightly to 3.6:1at 21.1 MHz. Hmm, looks like I need to get a little smarter about this.

Stay tuned for Part 2 to find out. (Don’t you hate that?)

Ed, K2TE

I Can’t Believe My Antenna’s Up!

I suppose the title could also be: (or how I learned to stop procrastinating and finally put up my HF antenna).

Well, I did it. I finally got my HF antenna up after months of admiring it through the plastic wrap and having the world’s most expensive paperweight (IC-7300) sitting in my metashack (how could I really ascribe any reality to it when it was still merely a concept). What I would like to accomplish in this article is not only a description of the construction etc. but also of some mental gymnastics, I had to do in order to get to the finish line.

Way back in February, I was able to get my General license. I was pretty stoked (to use the common tongue) and looking forward to getting it up and going. This required, essentially, two things: a radio and an antenna. Easy-peasy, right? The first really was easy. I wanted a 7300. Who didn’t? The proverbial ICOM bandwagon drove by my house daily. Several times a day while banging on a few drums. So, I did my homework as best as I could, talked to a few folks, and with not much arm twisting, bought a rig. Now I needed the antenna. And some drums…

For this portion of the ordeal, I ended up doing my homework a little more. I spoke to Fred and Anita at length about their choices: read their blog, saw their own setup in person, read posts in the Elmering session of Nashua ARC’s website, read comments on eHam.net about various antenna types. Some factors to consider are — in no particular order:

    1. Budget
    2. How much help you will have to put this up
    3. Aesthetics
    4. Available real estate
    5. How many bands do you want to work

At my QTH in MA, I have 0.5 acres in the front and back.

My QTH in Tewksbury, MA
My QTH in Tewksbury, MA

Having done my homework, I decided to go with the Buckmaster 7-band off-center fed dipole rated for 3 kW.

First Antenna - 3 kW antenna at the top
3 kW antenna at the top

I think the price point was a bit north of 300 bucks. Having made up my mind, I didn’t do anything about it. Upon reflection, I think I really didn’t act because work consumed me until mid-May. I literally had no free weekends for months, so there was no rush. In the interim, Fred and Anita had opened up their station for use, and I took joy in hearing about others’ QSOs for a while.

In order to still feel like a HAM, however, I decided to take my Extra exam in May. Once I that got out of the way I bought the Buckmaster in June on one fateful Thursday afternoon, and again, there it sat in the meta shack until September. Excuse #2: Honestly, with a project this big (at least for me) I think I was a bit gun-shy to get it up. I felt unqualified to do it; maybe even afraid to fail amidst all these competent people in the club.

Up until now, this may have read as Dear Diary, so let’s get to some actual station construction! Labor Day weekend was the ticket.

Good grief was this tough! Probably 85-90% of the total time was spent trying to figure this out. Mainly because, looking at the graphic, I had to get this about 35 ft. in the air. I got frustrated pretty quickly…

Buckmaster OCF dipole installation picture. Right from their website
Buckmaster OCF dipole installation picture. Right from their website

Now maybe that doesn’t seem like it’s that high, but I assure you, it becomes pretty darn high when you keep failing. So thinking about the problem and researching on the internet led me to some methods to try to get a rope up in the tree:

  1. Use a potato gun
  2. Call folks from the club to come lend a hand
  3. Rent a scissor lift from Home Depot
  4. Use a bow and arrow
  5. Use rope tied to a rock or stick and try to launch over the branch I want.

Here was what the jury decided on each of these options:

  1. Built one! Fires really well, but had issues initially with sparking it in the combustion chamber. Turns out the reason was due to insufficient amounts of butane getting into the chamber. In any case, I abandoned this as a choice. But who’s to say I can’t be mischievous at a later date.
  2. I felt bad bothering folks despite one ethos of amateur radio is to Elmer each other, so I didn’t ask for help. Bad news bears to those of you in the same predicament.
  3. Too expensive for the little time I needed it. I think Home Depot (spelling error intentional) wanted something in the neighborhood of 200 bucks or more.
  4. Don’t have one and nearest friend with one lived in Carlisle. Would have to work around his schedule and at this point, I was thru being patient.
  5. Rock idea worked reasonably well, but honestly, the best option was to get a stick and tie nylon fishing line around it. I have a pretty good arm it turns out, so I tied fishing line around the stick and started throwing.

In full disclosure, the elimination of these options takes us from Friday to Monday. Wisps of steam could be seen emanating from my ears.

The stick was attaining the requisite height and hitting where I needed it to. The huge snag (no pun intended), though, was the fishing line was getting caught in the branches on the way down. Yet another problem. Cue engineer father-in-law. He’s the guy labeled “this guy” in the picture.

Helper Dude
Helper Dude

He recommended winding a large amount of fishing line around the stick (but not all of it so that there would still be some left over on my side of the branch) so that when it came down the other side of the branch, it would unravel and not be as likely to get caught. This worked like a charm!

With the fishing line on either side of the branch, we tied the actual nylon, water / UV resistant rope (which I picked up at Home Depot) somewhere 25% up my side of the fishing line and then got on the far side of the branch and began hoisting it up. This also worked out very well.

First Antenna - Same father-in-law and hanging ropes which will support the Buckmaster
Same father-in-law and hanging ropes which will support the Buckmaster

Finally, with the rope I actually want to use over the tree, I tied the Buckmaster to one end of the rope on my side of the branch and then raised it up. I lowered and raised it a few times to make sure it wouldn’t get caught in the tree at any place. I tied off the free end through an eye screw that I screwed into the tree.

The coax I used was LMR-400. Again, doing my homework, I decided to splurge and buy 200 ft of coax but without the PL-259 connectors. I did this because I wanted to be able to cut the coax where I wished and would subsequently learn how to attach the connectors myself. This too turned out to be a relatively easy job. I picked up some connectors at the Boxboro Hamvention and borrows Dave’s (N1RF) crimper set (with dies) to attach the connectors. Taking my time, I was able to do both ends of the 200 ft coax in about 30 minutes tops. I also purchased some Super 88 electrical tape from Home Depot as well as used Scotch’s 2228 Moisture Sealing Electrical Tape (some other folks use CoaxWrap) for weatherproofing. I applied this following Fred’s suggestion on his blog.

First Antenna - Layers of super 88 and weatherproofing electrical tape fastened to antenna connection point
Layers of super 88 and weatherproofing electrical tape fastened to antenna connection point

With the feed-point setup, I then purchased two more nylon, water/UV resistant ropes to connect to the Buckmaster’s insulators. I found that the 3/16” diameter by 100 ft. rope worked well (3/16″ fit nicely through the insulators’ 1/2″ holes), again purchased at Home Depot. Shirley, the cashier, shot me a smile after ringing me up for the umpteenth time. To temporarily tie these off, I terminated the rope through some more eye screws I screwed into trees in my yard. But for the final installation, I will again follow Fred’s advice from his blog post.

Then, I ran inside, ran the coax through the window thereby performing the transformation of the meta shack into a proto shack! (Proto because it’s in the process of getting changed and upgraded) Ta da! Prestidigitation! That night I worked Brazil and the Czech Republic on 20 and 40 m respectively, and Australia around 0615 the next morning on 20m.

Protoshack, Coax not shown.
Protoshack. Coax not shown.

My follow up projects:

  1. I never mentioned grounding. I do have an 8 ft copper ground rod that I will install. I bought lightening arresters from DX Engineering: I have the kind that allows the passage of DC voltage which is needed for utilizing an antenna switch down the road. Since I plan on buying an antenna switch later, this seemed like a good option. This entire installation will take some time, so I need to find a free weekend. For now, I am only operating when the skies look perfect!
  2. Install my 15 m dipole that I bought from the HRO and covers the band not covered but the Buckmaster. This will likely happen in the Spring. For reals.
  3. Track down RF interference sources in my home and install the necessary chokes and beads. I’m kind of looking forward to this step.
  4. Find a final resting height for the radiating wires of my Buckmaster. I have a cousin with tree climbing equipment. Once he comes over to trim some branches etc., I am going to try and make a 180-degree angle with the wires as best as I can. Additionally, my wife wants me to switch out the white, nylon, water/UV resistant rope with dark colored rope since it’s a bit too visible.

Once I got going, I really had a blast. If I can be of any help to anyone about this, please feel free to send me a reply or contact me on the club website. Thanks a lot for following me through the whirlwinds that are my thoughts, and see you on the air!

Best and 73,

Brian (AB1ZO)

Hands-On Yagi Antenna Construction 2.0 for Teaching and Experimentation

The most important piece of equipment in ham radio is our antenna.  We are connected to the world with the magic of radio waves!  Each License Exam from Technician through Extra class has questions to test our knowledge on antenna design and building skills.  Home-brewed antennas are easy and relatively inexpensive projects.

This article describes a 2m, 3-element Yagi antenna construction concept that the N1FD FCC license teaching team has used over the last year for class demonstrations.  The “Lego” style construction (v. 2.0) shown in the above picture is our new design that demonstrates the operating principles of the ubiquitous basic dipole antenna as well as a 2-meter, 3 element Yagi.  (Note, This project evolved from an earlier effort by Diana Eng at Makezine.com, which can be seen here.

In this Newsletter issue, we will describe the construction of the “Lego” stylized antenna and show how it can illustrate basic properties of a dipole antenna.  We will build a Yagi antenna with the addition of reflector and director arms in a future Newsletter article.

CONSTRUCTION of the LEGO STYLIZED ANTENNA.

Yagi Antenna - Lego Antenna Parts and Receiver Antenna
Lego Antenna Parts and Receiver Antenna

The antenna demonstration unit consists of two assemblies. 

  1. A handheld receiver dipole set to a fixed frequency (e.g., 146.550 MHz). It is shown at the top of the photo above. It follows a “plumber’s delight” construction using pieces of PVC pipe for a short boom and handles.  The dipole arms are two telescoping (7-28 inch) FM radio replacement antennas, available on eBay or Radio Shack ($4-6 dollars).  The arms feed through the boom and are epoxied.  Bridging across the arms is a common 6-volt flashlight bulb.  The bulb lights up when the dipole receives a resonant rf signal.
  1. The “Lego stylized” Yagi antenna components are shown below the receiver unit. The boom (middle item) is made of red oak dimensioned at ¾  x  1 ½   x  48    The top surface is grooved to hold an epoxied  3/16  steel rod.  The bottom surface has drilled recesses to fit ¾ in PVC pipe for leg stands. The edge of the boom has two 24-inch adhesive tape rulers running from center to front and back of the boom.  The rulers read-out the spacing between the driven dipole element and the parasitic reflector and director arms. In the photo, the D.E. and parasitic elements are seen below the 48 in. boom.  The center element is the driven dipole and it is flanked by identical units that can be configured as either reflectors or directors.   Each unit consists of two telescoping FM radio antenna rods epoxied in a grooved piece of red oak ( ¾  x  1 ½  x  3 inches) serving as “riders” on the boom.  The telescope arms can be adjusted to “resonance” at any frequency in the 2-meter band. The bottom of all riders has 2 x ½ inch rare earth magnets.  These allow the three antenna elements to be fixed at any position on the 48 in. boom.

You can view a closer look at the assembled Yagi antenna configuration in this video (Click on Link)

DEMONSTRATIONS OF BASIC DIPOLE BEHAVIOR. 

1.  Antenna Resonance Determined by Dipole Length.

As we all know, the resonance length of a dipole is given by the equation:    L (in inches)  =  5616/ [ Frequency (in MHz)].  We can show this fact with aid of the “receiver” antenna, which is set for a frequency of 146.55 MHz  The light bulb of this antenna will light when it senses a signal of this value from our “Lego” antenna.

In the video below (Click on Link), we begin with a resonant D.E. length of 38.5 inches and see the receiver antenna light up.  Next, we manually shorten the D.E. and see the bulb light dramatically dim.  When the D.E. length is returned near the start value, the light bulb again brightens up.

  1. Effect of SWR on Signal Strength.

Most modern transceivers have a built-in auto-tuner that can match SWR up to 3:1.  We know this only makes the “radio happy”, still we key down without much thought on how our Tx signal degrades with a 3:1 match.  The pictures below use the transmitting “Lego” dipole and receiver dipole to show the received signals for an SWR of 1.1 and 3.0.  The SWR was changed by lengthening the D.E. elements by 2 inches while holding the Tx frequency at 146.55 MHz

Yagi Antenna - Receiver Signal-for Lego Dipole SWR 1.1
Receiver Signal-for Lego Dipole SWR 1.1
Yagi Antenna - Receiver Signal- for Lego Dipole SWR 3.0
Receiver Signal- for Lego Dipole SWR 3.0
3.  Polarization Effects between Tx and Rx Antennas.

A horizontal dipole shows “horizontal” polarization; meaning the electric field vector of the rf signal is parallel to the earth surface.  Similarly, a vertical dipole displays “vertical” polarization with the electric field perpendicular to the earth. We all learn this in a Technician class course.

When we use our 2m HT’s for short distance contacts, Tx and Rx antennas with opposite orientation create a huge signal loss.  The effect is shown dramatically in the video below.

CONCLUSION 

Our classroom constructible antenna for demonstrations in our Ham Radio license classes has evolved in design over the past year.  We believe it has been a useful resource,  helping students translate textbook theory to “Hands On” practice.  Perhaps, this review has kindled interest for our readers to think of their Next Antenna Project!

73 & Hope to hear you on the air,

Dave N1RF

Radio Amateurs Developing Skills Worldwide