All posts by Jack Ciaccia

Former Section Manager for the Colorado Section (2011-2020). Past President of the Boulder Amateur Radio Club (2002-2011). Former Emergency Coordinator for Boulder County ARES. Director and Co-Founder of the BARC Juniors Youth in Amateur Radio Club. Founder and Administrator of the BARC Scholarship Fund. Co-Founder and Member of Colorado Auxcomm. Member of the Mile High DX Association and Grand Mesa Contesters. Enthusiast in DXing, contesting, and emergency communications. For more about my life and experiences, visit my blog at wm0g.wordpress.com.

My Portable Gear and Organizing for a POTA Event

One of the problems I face when I think of doing a POTA activation is what to bring and how best to organize my gear so I have what I need. The easiest thing to do is consider what you MUST have in your POTA equipment cache. Secondly, list the necessities to get your station on the air in the field. If you forget to bring the manual for your transceiver, some coax adapters, or various lengths of complete jumper coaxial cables, it might make the difference in whether or not you get on the air. I have two ‘bags’ plus my accessory bag containing everything I need to get up and running.

The first ‘bag’ is a hard case for my HF rig, VHF/UHF HT, power source, microphone, keyer, and antenna analyzer. Also included in this case are the operating manuals for the HF rig, the VHF/UHF HT, the power source, and the antenna analyzer.

The second ‘bag’ contains my antenna and coax. Within the confines of this small bag is my “Super Antenna” vertical, the precut-tuned radials from 80m through 10m. A mounting tripod, a ground spike antenna mount, a locking plier with a 3/8” to SO-239 connector welded to it, an HF frequency chart, and a 25’ length of RG-8X coaxial cable with PL-259 for the connection to the antenna end and a BNC connector on the other end for the input to my KX2 Rig. Plus, the tools to set the antenna up and set adjustments.

My accessory bag has various items I have sometimes seen needed on a portable radio setup. Although I am new to the POTA activations and hunting them, I have operated from many field locations in my 66 years as a ham radio operator.

MY GO-BOX CHECKLIST:

  • POTA Gear
    Elecraft KX2

    Elecraft KX2 w/KXPD2 keyer paddle & MH-3 Mic

  • Wouxon UV3D 2m/70cm HT & Whip Antennas
  • FlashFish 200W Solar Generator
  • Heil BM-17 earphones
  • Vibroflex Vibrokeyer CW paddle
  • AA-30 Antenna Analyzer
  • Solar-powered clock/thermometer
  • LED Light powered by Solar Generator
  • Frequency Reference Guide
  • Mini Log Book
  • FCC License
  • Elecraft KX2 Manual
  • FlashFish Solar Generator Manual
  • AA-30 Antenna Analyzer Manual 

MY ANTENNA GO-BAG LIST:

MP1C Super Antenna includes:

  • TM1 Low-Profile Tripod
  • UM2 Universal NVIS Super tilt Clamp Mount
  • SW1 Titanium Super whip

    POTA Gear
    MP1TRDX80 Superantenna
  • SP3 Super Spike Ground Mount
  • MC80 80-Meter Coil
  • MR Super Radial Sets = (40m-10m); (30m-17m); (80m-75m); (6m-4m-2m)
  • FG1 SWR Ruler
  • GB2 Super Go Bag
  • ER1 Extension rods
  • TW1 Telescopic Whip
  • PC1 HF Propagation Chart
  • Clamp and U-Bolt

Tools:

  • Hammer
  • Allen wrenches
  • Long-nose pliers/wire cutters
  • Adjustable crescent wrench

Extra Antenna items:

  • Locking pliers with 3/8”- SO-239 fitting
  • ~ 90’ of Extra flexible antenna wire
  • SIZE: The antenna extends to about 8ft tall. Collapsed Size: 12 inches. Go Bag Size: 13″x9″x3.5″ WEIGHT: The antenna weighs 1 pound. The antenna with accessories in the Go Bag is about 5 pounds. Maximum Power Rating: 500W SSB, 300W CW/DATA.
  • FREQUENCIES: ALL BANDS 80m, 75m, 40m, 30m, 20m, 17m, 15m, 12m, 11m, 10m meters (3.5MHz to 4.8MHz and 7MHz-30MHz) HF, plus VHF 6m (30MHz-54MHz) with a good SWR. Continuously tunes all frequencies: Marine, Government, NGO, CAP, MARS, EmComm, Shortwave, CB, etc. Direct Manual Tuning SuperSlider Coil, with Good SWR.
  • ANTENNA: The MP1C Antenna is at the heart of this high-performance system, with its high Q coil made of military-grade nickel beryllium resulting in repeatable precision.
  • TUNING: The FG1 Frequency Guide SWR Ruler calibrates a rigid polymer card in MHz and meter bands. With it, a good SWR is dialed in on all HF and VHF bands and then fine-tuned with my AA-30 Antenna Analyzer. There’s no need for an autotuner, but it can help extend the frequency range.
  • SUPERWHIP: The included SW1 ruggedized Titanium SuperWhip puts the Super Antenna in a ruggedized durability class beyond most regular ham antennas.
  • TRIPOD: The collapsible TM1 Low-Profile Tripod enables the antenna to be set up on any convenient flat surface, outdoors or indoors. 

ACCESSORY BAG CONTAINS:

  • 30-watt soldering iron w/solder
  • 3M waterproof Super 88 electrical tape
  • 3’ 50-Ohm BNC/BNC Coax Jumper Cable
  • 2’ 50-Ohm PL-259/PL-259 Coax Jumper Cable
  • AA Battery Pack for Wouxon UV3D HT
  • Assorted VHF/UHF, BNC, and SMA adaptors
  • AC/DC Power supply for KX2 and External Lithium-Ion

Fast Charger for the KX2’s KXBT2 battery

  • Wouxon UV3D battery charger
  • Bongo ties
  • LED flexible lamp
  • Multimeter
  • RCA to twin RCA splitter cable
  • USB to Micro cable
  • 5mm to 2.5mm 6’ audio cable
  • Programming cable for Wouxon UV3D
  • USB cable with AC to 5 VDC adapter
  • 2-Meter flexible J-Pole antenna w/BNC/PL-259/SMA adapters
  • Mini-bud earphones
  • External battery for cellphone – 9.6-watt hours – 5VDC in/5VDC out
  • Wall-wart power supply charger for Solar Generator 110/240 VAC in/15.0 VDC out
  • Transient voltage surge suppressor
  • MFJ Model 281 ClearTone external 8-ohm 4” speaker
  • 25-watt dummy load
  • Extra 2m/440 whip antennas

When building the case for the KX2 and the other items, I chose a hard-sided, oversized briefcase instead of a Pelican Box. I reasoned that I didn’t see the need for that order of protection with the way I operate on POTA activations. History may change my mind, but it has been more than adequate to serve my needs so far. I bought the case at Harbor Freight for $40.00. It came with pre-sliced foam for the bottom and an acoustic-like foam rubber top panel. The precut foam made it easy to make exact-size cuts to insert my Solar Generator and the KX2. The divider strips came with breakable stops to make it easy to make custom-divided sections in the case. I made a door-like cut in the top panel, and with Velcro, it now serves as a storage area for my manuals and paperwork. The total weight is around 15 pounds when loaded. Most of that weight is attributed to the 200W Solar Generator, about 4 pounds alone.

POTA GearThe internal KXBT2 Lithium-Ion battery pack In the KX2 provides 11 VDC @ 2.6 Ah, giving you about 8 hours of operation. It slowly recedes in power as the voltage decreases. The Solar generator plugs into the DC input of the KX2. When the power is less from the Lithium-Ion battery than the Solar Generator output, the KX2 automatically switches to the more prominent voltage source. I have a 100-watt foldable solar panel that inputs to the Solar Generator. However, you can’t charge its battery while it is running. Multiple Charging Outputs on the Generator Provide More Options: Features with AC/ DC/ USB OUTPUTS: 110 VAC output (200W), 2 DC outputs, 2 QC 3.0 quick charge USB ports, and 1 USB port (2.4A auto). It provides 151Wh (40800mAh) to power your transceiver, smartphone, tablet, laptop, camera, light, drones, fans, in-car appliances, CPAP machine, and more anytime. Triple Rechargeable Modes = Efficient Solar Generator: FlashFish power station’s Lithium-Ion battery pack can be charged by a 15-24-volt solar panel (not included), AC wall adapter, and car charger efficiently. There is no memory effect and no worry about battery capacity reduction.

Other items worth bringing along for your activation should include a lightweight, foldable table and a comfortable folding chair. A pop-up canopy is also a good idea if the weather is too sunny or the weather turns to rain. With all this gear, you might want to invest in a foldable wagon to haul it to your chosen spot after leaving your car. They typically cost about $70, but you will also find many uses around your home for them caring for household chores and at hamfests carrying about your newfound ‘treasures.’

A solar-powered 24-hour clock set to UTC gives me the exact time and the corresponding UTC date whenever I log my QSOs in a paper log book.

I now bring a wireless ‘Hot Spot’ from my cellphone carrier on these POTA activations. I can run my logging program on my tablet and use the wireless keyboard. I can still be online because I’ll have an Internet source at a reasonably remote location in the ‘Great North Woods’ of New Hampshire, Vermont, or Maine.

Although not required, legally, having a photocopy of your FCC license handy or mounted somewhere on your Go-Box is a good idea. If law enforcement, park rangers, etc., question what you are doing, it usually alleviates their concern about your presence and actions once a Federally-issued license is recognized. If you are entering a State or Federally-owned National Park, it is always a good idea to ask the person at the entrance about your antenna and whether they have any rules about using the trees as a support source.

Always try your gear at home or a nearby field location before heading out on your outdoor radio adventure. Set it up approximately the same as you will at the POTA event. You will be better prepared after doing so and could benefit from any faux pas you encounter during this practice session.

73 es GL de Jack WMØG

WM0G Rain Gutter Antenna

Several years ago, I wrote an article on the use of the rain gutter on my Colorado home as my HF antenna. This was the antenna I was relegated to use for my HF operating due to the oppressive rules of the local Home Owners Association regarding external antennas. Although I did remind them at the time that it was illegal to ban small outdoor satellite dishes and Yagi’s for TV reception per the FCC, so they amended that clause in the HOA covenants, but still continued their ban on any outside ham antennas. I’ll not complain, as I knew what the HOA rules were when I got this house and accepted them as a challenge to my ingenuity.

Rain Gutter Antenna
Rain Gutter Antenna

One day I was looking around to see what I could use to support a wire on the roof and got an idea to try to use the aluminum rain gutter on the east side of my house as my HF antenna instead. The gutter measured 25 feet vertically and then ran 35 feet horizontally for a total of 60 feet in overall length and resembled a ready-made inverted “L” or what is also known as a Marconi antenna configuration. That antenna needs a decent counterpoise to work correctly so I planted fifteen random length radials under the lawn. I then wired together the three aluminum window wells that were on that side of the house and added them to the planted radial wires. Additionally, I bolted together all of the aluminum lawn edging around my lawn and added a wire from that into the other counterpoise elements. According to the accepted theory, the more metal and wire you use in your radial system, the better. You might consider connecting to your radial system any nearby chain link fencing, metal lawn sprinkler piping, buried metal screening, water standpipes, underground water storage tanks, metal drainage culverts, railroad tracks, etc.

After the installation and in the initial trials, one of the drawbacks I noticed on the rain gutter antenna was that it was somewhat tricky to load on some of the bands using a conventional antenna trans-match. It was impossible to find a decent matching combination on 160 meters at all. Although, loading on the 80, 40, 30, 20, and 15 meters bands did not present as much of a problem and I could get an SWR match under 3:1 in a few small portions of those bands. Tuning on 10 meters was a bit tricky as well as finding any sort of decent match on 12 meters and 17 meters.

I looked at several possible solutions including one developed by my good ham friend, stealth antenna compatriot, DX’er, celebrated author, and renowned Physicist – Dr. Yardley Beers, WØJF (now SK) who volunteered to do all the complex mathematical calculations on my rain gutter antenna system. In a few days, he gave me a coil design that could be added to the feed point of the rain gutter in order for it to load on 160 meters. There was no doubt in my mind that his design would work.

Ultimately, though, I had decided on using a different approach. I had read a lot about the SGC-230 Smartuner™ Automatic Antenna Coupler in ham magazines and on the Internet. It seemed like a plausible solution to this problem IF it worked as advertised. The automatic antenna coupler is designed for use with end-fed unbalanced antennas such as whips and long wires. It can be configured to be used with dipoles and inverted vees as well. This automatically tunable antenna coupler is an ideal solution for this type of installation due to the fact that a rain gutter looks like a non-resonant end-fed unbalanced antenna.

What is the difference between an antenna coupler and an antenna tuner? According to the SGC manual, “antenna couplers” are placed at the antenna and match conditions of the antenna to the feed line in a very precise manner whereas, “antenna tuners” on the other hand, are generally located at the transmitter output at the transceiver end of the coaxial feed line. Furthermore, antenna tuners placed at the transmitter allow substantial losses in feed lines to be corrected at that point in order to “fool” a transmitter into working correctly. The losses are dissipated through heat or to ground. Conversely, a coupler installed at the antenna eliminates these losses by providing a proper match of the antenna at the feed point. The SGC-230 Smartuner™ is a true antenna “coupler”.

SGC-230 Smart Tuner
SGC-230 Smart Tuner

After purchasing the SGC-230 Smartuner™ from my local Denver HRO store I couldn’t wait to get it installed. Included within the formidable packaging of the box was an impressive and informative 81-page installation and operating manual that explained the coupler’s inner workings and it suggested various antenna applications for the SGC-230 with illustrations. Upon physical inspection of the unit, I was impressed by the ruggedness of the construction of the SGC-230. This hermetically-sealed antenna coupler was obviously meant to be installed outdoors and was even suitable for installation on shipboard. At a major military show,

I even saw one mounted on the side of an Army Humvee connected to their whip antenna! SGC builds other models of these types of antenna coupling devices but the SGC-230 Smartuner™ is rated at 200W input. I probably wouldn’t ever run more than 100 watts, but it is comforting to know that you are not running on the hairy edge of the limits of its power capabilities. I figured that the additional margin would translate into many extra years of trouble-free operation.

The feed to the rain gutter is barely visible in this photo as well as the braided connection to the radials.
The feed to the rain gutter is barely visible in this photo as well as the braided connection to the radials.

The installation was a snap. SGC gives you an additional quick installation guide for those of us that don’t like to read the whole manual. First, I mounted the antenna coupler as close as possible to the feed point of the rain gutter per the specification in the installation guide. This is because any portion of the feed wire that is connected to the SGC-230 becomes part of the overall length of the antenna too.  So, I mounted my unit on the inside wall of the foundation of the basement just above the wooden base plate and below the flooring. This location was just opposite the downspout of the rain gutter, which served as my antenna feed point on the outside. A short distance of 8 inches away. I drilled two holes just larger than the O.D. of the intended feed-thru wires through the 2×12 inch base above the concrete foundation and on through to the outer siding. Then I took apart a piece of RG-8X coax and separated the inner conductor from the braided shield. The inner conductor would serve nicely as the feed wire from the coupler to the downspout. You are cautioned in the instructions not to use coax to hook up these auto couplers on the antenna feed side. The now-separated braided shielding served as the hookup to the outside radial wires and was then connected to the ground lug provided on the SGC- 230. Now all that was left was to connect the RG-8X coax from my rig to the input of the cable harness provided with the SGC-230. There is a set of control wires and voltage wires included in this coaxial cable harness. The +12 VDC hot wire and ground went to my 12 VDC power supply. There are control signal leads that are also provided that are used for an indication of the coupler`s tuning. An LED “antenna tuned” indicator was connected between +12 VDC and the control signal wire. When the antenna coupler has found a match, the coupler drives the signal to ground on the control wire, which causes the LED to light. It provides a good visual indicator close to my operating position because I can’t hear the quiet auto coupler relays engaging from my operating position. The total time for installation, from getting the unit out of the box to starting the initial testing, was under an hour.

To me, the “proof is in the pudding” and my acceptance would be how well it performed in on the air tests. First, I tried to load up the antenna on all the bands from 10 through 80 meters. Wow! no problem whatsoever! All bands indicated a 1:1 SWR and the initial tuning time on each band was from 3 to 4 seconds for finding a match. The Smartuner™ automatically evaluates and switches 64 input and 32 output capacitance combinations plus 256 inductance combinations in a “pi” network which equals over a half-million matching combinations. Once it finds a match, the SGC-230 has 500 memories in which it stores the LC combination in its non-volatile computer memory so that the next time that you operate on that same frequency it tunes almost instantaneously, usually in less than 10 milliseconds. Now for the band that I hadn’t been able to get a match on before… 160 meters. I went down to the CW portion where I usually operate and it found a match within 4 seconds. Life is good again! I also did not notice any “hunting” by the SGC antenna coupler once it has been tuned to a frequency.

I decided I would wait until the evening to perform some on the air experiments with some people I knew. I checked into a WAS Net on 75 meters that I have been active on for over 20 years and knew most of the hams there. These unwitting participants in my on-air tests were giving me S7 to S9+ reports from New England to California and from British Columbia to Florida. I had not let on to anyone before the net that I had done anything to my antenna system and thought I’d gather a few willing souls after the net to give me some further signal reports.

I was getting reports of S6 in New England later on as the band seemed to be changing a little but I was still getting S9+ reports from the southern states and was still S7 into British Columbia and Washington State and S9 into California. Most of these good folks know that I am using a rain gutter for an antenna but some of them think I am kidding them about it and using something more formidable for an antenna and maybe even a linear! So, after telling everyone on the WAS net about my latest antenna configuration and new addition, I got a comment from a station in Arkansas who said, “If I could put a signal like that out from my rain gutter, I’d get rid of my dipole and my linear too!” He said that my signal had been over S9 all night at his QTH. The band conditions were decent this particular evening but the reports were consistently well above previously logged reports I’ve had with those very same stations in the past under similar band conditions without the coupler. The signal reports remained fairly constant, plus or minus band conditions over the years.

K5K Kingman Reef DXpedition QSL
K5K Kingman Reef DXpedition QSL

Later that same week, I noticed on the DX-Cluster that the long-awaited K5K Kingman Reef DXpedition was up and running. This would be an ATNO (all-time new one) for me if I could get through the pileups. I knew that CW would be my best chance early on and I’d try for the SSB contacts later on during the DXpedition when the “big guns” had gotten their fill and their “feeding frenzy” was over. I caught K5K easily on 30 meters – no problem, as everyone on that band is fairly equal due to the power limitation. Later, I worked K5K on 15, 17, and 40 meters CW. I even got them on 40 meters SSB too! Finally, one evening I saw a spot for K5K on 160 meters. I hadn’t actually operated down here before with the rain gutter due to the problems I have previously noted. I heard him and set up split about 1.5 kHz up and slipped in my callsign fully preparing to be there for a while as his presence had attracted a fairly good pileup. He came back to me on my very first call! I was so shocked that I didn’t answer right away. I just kept staring at my radio – it was like having “buck fever” when you are out deer hunting. He sent my callsign again. I hurriedly snapped out of my trance and jumped onto my Vibroflex key and gave him the usual 5NN 5NN CO TU ES 73 DE WMØG. He acknowledged my reply and continued on to work the rest of the pileup. Not too bad! My very first 160 meters contact on the rain gutter was a rare DX station in a pileup. I was even more impressed now with my new antenna coupler. It had ‘played’ as advertised and had already justified its pricey self in my mind. I like to imagine that the other guys in that pileup thought that they had initially lost out to some “big gun” top band DX’er with his quarter wavelength high 160 meters 4-square vertical array and multi-KW amplifier — HI!

Since that time, I casually worked over 220 countries (all bands), and had enough confirmed QSO’s for WAS on 75 meters SSB. I even participated in the ARRL SSB Contest and managed to work 45 different countries in just 98 contacts, mostly on 20, 15, and 10 meters. These were accomplished in a little under three hours of actual operating time while being particular on who I called while “searching and pouncing”. While this is certainly not an impressive “run-rate” it is still is not a bad testimonial to the capabilities of the rain gutter antenna and SGC-230 automatic coupler combination. Even if one considers that most of the contest ops on the receiving end were using much more impressive antennas in order to hear me. Most stations I called were still coming back to me on my first or second call, except for a few of the rarer ones who had lots of QRM on their frequency.

I know now that when I install my next mobile HF radio installation, it too will have an SGC antenna coupler just ahead of the whip. Reports I’ve read on the resultant combination of the SGC series automatic antenna couplers used with plain steel whips have been very good from 160 meters on up. I also have read independent reviews that it works incredibly well with the equally pricey, but efficient, matching the SGC-303 9-foot tall mobile antenna. No, I don’t work for SGC, but I am a satisfied customer, and I don’t mind spreading the word about their quality products.

With regards to my experiences using a rain gutter for an antenna, I write this article in the fervent hope that some covenant-restricted or apartment dwelling ham, somewhere, will be inspired to replicate some form of stealthy antenna system as I, and many others, have done too. I would hope he or she would also then share their enjoyment of being on the HF bands with a respectable signal, despite the covenanted restrictions and physical obstacles around them.

This article is certainly not technical in its content, nor was it meant to be so. It is, however, testimony that one need not have ideal antenna conditions in order to operate effectively on the HF bands. Many books have been written on the subject of stealth amateur radio operation and all of them offer some very sound advice regarding the subject of stealth antennas. I suggest that if you have a desire to run a stealthy ham station you consult these books first. Also, go to the SGC web page and download one of their online manuals for their antenna auto couplers where you will find even more ideas and solutions. In the back of their manual under “Smartuner™ Installations & Applications,” you will see my rain gutter antenna article as well. Also, Steve Nichols, GØKYA published my article in the RSGB. I’m always interested in anyone who has been inspired to try this combination and hear about their success.

Jack, WM0G

WMØG’s Novice Memories

WMØG’s NOVICE MEMORIES

By Jack Ciaccia

NoviceI was introduced to the wonderful world of shortwave radio one Christmas Day way back in the mid-1950s as a young Boy Scout working on my Radio Merit Badge. My parents knew I was working towards this merit badge and bought me a Revell ‘Radaradio’ diode radio receiver kit for Christmas. This kit used a 1N34A germanium diode for the detector and a ferrite loop antenna versus the old-time traditional crystal radio receiver’s use of a piece of Galena, a wire-wound coil form, and a metal cat-whisker. After spending an hour or so putting this all together and grounding the radio to the water pipe on the bathroom sink, I found that I could actually hear a radio station in the headset! It was the Voice of America transmitting from Bethany, Ohio. Wow… DX!

Late at night, I found I could hear Radio Moscow. Double Wow… Real DX! Of course, in those days at the height of the “Cold War” with radio propaganda battles going on between the two Super Powers with their Multi-Megawatt shortwave radio broadcast stations, you probably could have heard the Voice Of America or Radio Moscow with a wire attached to the fillings of your teeth. Then, I heard some other sort of radio communications. I could only hear one side of the conversation of a local ham radio operator working another distant ham radio station. I was hooked! I needed to hear both sides of those conversations. I needed a better radio, one with more selectivity and more sensitivity, etc. I found out that one of my father’s fishing friends had a shortwave radio and that he was willing to trade me for my AM/FM clock radio. That was a deal! Heck, that AM/FM clock radio was only used to wake me up for school anyway. Once I traded for the shortwave radio, an old 1938 Model S-19R ‘Sky Buddy’ receiver, I found I could hear all sorts of shortwave radio stations and lots of ham radio stations too. I could also use it to listen to Morse code and other strange noises and signals across the bands. I could even listen to my father, whose hobby was fishing for Giant Bluefin Tuna, Swordfish, and other big-game fish off the coastline of New England. My dad would spend as many days and nights out fishing that his business (and my mother) would allow him to do. In those days, most of the maritime Ship to Shore communications were on 2638 and 2738 kHz and with my homebrew wire-wound bamboo vertical, I could now hear him on the HF Marine Radio from his boat talking with other boat captains whose boat names I also recognized. By eavesdropping on his radio communications, I could now inform my mother as to when he was headed back to port. Of course, he surmised that I would probably be listening and would make sure that I knew, by his pointed conversation with the other boats, whether or not he had caught fish and if he would be back in port by evening. This radio SWLing was really helpful when he was fishing offshore in bad weather and would have to pull into some other port until the weather broke and he could finally make his way back home. In the days before cell phones, this was a way to communicate, albeit one-way.

During the summer of 1958, I decided that I wanted to get my Novice Amateur Radio License.  I spent just about every idle hour reading and re-reading my Novice Exam book, the Amateur Radio Operating manual, or practicing sending Morse code on my code oscillator or listening to Morse code on my shortwave radio and writing down whatever characters I could hear and decipher. Finally, by that August, I felt that I was finally ready to take the Novice Class license exam.

In those days, the standard procedure for getting a Novice Class license was to go to a General Class ham who would order a Novice License test from the FCC and then act as a volunteer examiner. After 1954, and until the ARRL VE system started up, the FCC did not routinely give Novice Class or Technician Class exams at their FCC Office examination locations. There was no special accreditation to be a Volunteer Examiner back then either.  Anyone with a General Class or higher license, over the age of 21, and who was not related to the examinee could serve as a volunteer examiner for a Novice or Technician Class licensee.

My father’s cousin owned a Radio & TV repair business and knew a manufacturers’ rep for RCA tubes that was a ham. He arranged for me to take the Novice Class test at this ham’s home. Cliff Smith, W1PPN (now SK) was the ham and my Novice Class examiner. Cliff was a well-known 160-meter DXer. I remember his home station was located right on the oceanfront in Barrington, RI. He had a monster of a long-wire antenna strung high across a saltwater marsh on the inlet of the bay. His rig was the classic Johnson Desk Kilowatt with a Collins 75A4 receiver. The ultimate ham radio station for those days. I nervously took the Novice exam and was excited to hear that I had passed. Now, all I had to do was wait to receive that coveted piece of paper from the FCC.  In those days, it took approximately 60 days for the FCC to process these exams and issue the license. I made many, many fruitless trips to the mailbox before it finally showed up. Finally, after what seemed forever, there in the day’s mail was my brand new FCC license with my newly-minted Novice Class callsign, K N 1 I V Y

Charles Dickens, about 100 years earlier in his classic novel “Tale of Two Cities” had unknowingly made in his opening sentence an early assessment of my Novice radio experience. “It was the best of times; it was the worst of times.” I was like a deer mesmerized by the headlights of radio technology.

There was a “dark side” to the Novice license history at that time. I remember browsing through an old QST from about 1956 and in the Correspondence section, there were several letters complaining about Novices and how they were ruining ham radio. I don’t know how prevalent that attitude was back then, but QST did publish the anti-Novice letters as well as those of other hams who supported the then-new Novice license. “No kids, no lids, no space cadets” was one ham’s slogan, and he was not alone in those sentiments.

Another “dark side” was that the Novice dropout rate was caused by the difficulty some of us had in getting to a test session. After 1954, all Novice exams were given by mail, but the General exam was given only at Regional FCC Offices. You could get a Conditional Class license (equivalent to a General Class) if you lived more than 75 airline miles from an FCC office, but 75 miles airline miles could be many more miles in actual road travel distance. Novices who lived less than the Conditional 75-mile distance but more than a few dozen miles from an exam point could find it a real hardship to get to the FCC test site. Later, in 1965, the FCC extended the Conditional Class license distance up to 175 miles, which could mean an even longer 350+ mile roundtrip for some hams just to take their license exams. My nearest Regional FCC Office exam center was at the Commonwealth Building in Boston, Massachusetts some 42 airline miles away from my home in Providence, RI. When I finally was ready to take my General Class license, my father had to close his sporting goods store for a day in order to drive me to the Commonwealth Building through notorious Boston traffic and then wait for me to take the exam. I still remember his encouraging words just before I took my test… “I hope you are ready to pass this test because I’m not making another *d–n trip up here” – No pressure there! Eventually, my father got interested in ham radio too, learned the Morse code, and eventually earned his Novice Class license with the callsign of KN1LQG.

In 1958, the Novice class frequency privileges were simple to remember. From 3.7 to 3.75 mc, CW; 7.15 to 7.2mc, CW; 21.1 to 21.145 mc, CW and on 144-148 mc, CW and Phone. There were complaints from some Generals back then that “those annoying Novices should not be allowed on the new 15-meter band”. In September of 1958, right after I received my Novice license, the FCC started up the Citizen’s Band Radio, Class D, using AM phone. The seldom-used 11-meter ham band was taken away from the amateurs and given to those #@*!ing CB’ers. That was the prime subject of conversation on the air by hams of that time for many, many months. I applied for one of those new Citizen Band licenses too (CB licenses were mandatory then). I received the CB callsign 1W2754. In 1958, there were about 160,000 hams in the U.S. and about 50,000 CB’ers.

Novice Memories - S-19RI now began to assemble my Novice amateur radio station. I already had my old vintage 1938 Hallicrafters S-19R ‘Sky Buddy’ receiver that was less than adequate on all bands. The main feature that they advertised about this radio is that it was a Superhet! I bought and built the Heathkit QF-1 Q-Multiplier kit for it and that helped the receiver out a little bit and gave me some much-needed additional sensitivity and selectivity. Later on, I built a Knight Kit R-100A, a single conversion 9-tube shortwave receiver with a built-in Q-Multiplier. It was definitely a step up in technology from my old Hallicrafters S-19R receiver.

Novice - Heathkit DX-40My first transmitter was the venerable Heathkit DX-40. My parents staked me to the acquisition of this basic old transmitter. In the one-way negotiation with my father, it was decided that I could pay them back by mowing lawns (at $2.00/lawn) at our house, my grandparent’s house, and my uncle’s house every weekend. The price of the Heathkit DX-40 was $64.95 plus shipping from Benton Harbor, Michigan. It took a few days to build and then I had to troubleshoot it for another few days afterward. It was during that time that I learned about cold-solder joints. Soldering is not an acquired art, nor is it something you inherit genetically… it must be learned… one burn at a time! Heathkit had introduced the DX-40 in January 1958. It was designed for the 80 to 10-meter ham bands and it used stacked B+ for the oscillator and buffer tubes (both 6CL6’s). The final amplifier tube was a 6146 rated at 75 watts CW or 60 watts on AM phone. A switch on the rear panel allowed you to select between one of three crystals or an optional, external VFO once you achieved your General Class License. There were 6 tubes altogether and the plate voltage on the 6146 final amplifier was 710 volts. I was very careful not to measure that voltage with one of my fingers!

Tuning the DX-40 was also a new experience for me. The grid current had to be set to 3 milliamps and then the plate current needed to be dipped and raised alternatively with the ‘antenna tune’ and ‘final tune’ controls. The input power was the product of the resulting plate current multiplied times the plate voltage. Before initiating a CQ, I would place the transmitter in the tune position on very low power and press my J-38 code key down while tuning my not-so-accurate S-19R receiver to locate my transmit frequency. There was no such thing as digital frequency readout and only the most expensive receivers at that time had 100 kilocycle calibrators and/or accurate analog scales. Since Novices did not have phone privileges on most of the HF bands except for a portion of the 10M band, I did not have much use for a microphone, but I did need to buy some crystals. I opted for 7166 kilocycles, which was in the middle of the 40-meter Novice band, 7150-7200 kilocycles. For 15 meters, I ordered an additional 7045 kilocycle “rock”, which tripled up to 21,135 kilocycles in the Novice portion of the 15-meter band. The DX-40 was a rig that was tailor-made for the new Novice with ambitions to upgrade. In 1958, the Novice license was only good for one year and it was non-renewable. A new Novice had one year to increase his code speed up from 5 wpm to 13 wpm and to study up on the theory, memorize 6-10 schematics including Colpitts and Hartley oscillators and full & half-wave rectifiers, plus learn additional mathematical formulas about series and parallel resistance, reactance and memorize and understand the then-current ham radio rules and regulations.

The only antenna that I felt I knew enough about how to build back in 1958 was a dipole. I designed and built one for the CW portion of the 40M band that would resonate on the 15M CW band as well. Our family home was a large Victorian-era house (built circa 1880) with a very steep 12/12-pitch (45°) four-gabled roof. Getting onto the roof was a feat in itself and I had to have assistance from my uncle, a construction worker, to get that part of the antenna up and attached to one of the steep eaves. The other side of the 40M Dipole was attached to a 55-foot tall telephone pole that my father had installed years ago for our Yagi TV antenna. Now that I think about it, I had a taller antenna back then than I have now!

I didn’t have a coaxial antenna relay to switch between the S-19R receiver and DX-40 transmitter, so I set up a big knife switch to use for the antenna TR switch. I think we all must have got this same idea for an antenna switch-over from watching old ‘mad scientist’ horror movies. This switch arrangement also created a ready-made source of RF burns! My ham shack was located right there in a corner of my bedroom. I can remember leaving the knife switch ungrounded and then going to bed during a midsummer’s night thunder boomer. And, because I knew just enough about electrical theory to respect and fear lightning beyond all sense of logic, I just laid there and hoped for the best, rather than getting up and trying to ground that knife switch. Fortunately, I was lucky enough not to have had my antenna struck directly (or even indirectly) during that event. The little EMP arcs were really fascinating to see in the dark, though!

Solar Cycle 19About the time I was getting my Novice feet wet in ham radio, we were in the midst of Solar Cycle 19 and some of the highest sunspot activity ever recorded in recent history with daily numbers in the 190 range! From what I can remember reading back then, the Northern Lights were even observed in Mexico three times during the year 1958. One day in July of 1959, a HUGE solar flare went off that virtually killed all HF communications in the Northeastern US for the better part of a week. The Aurora Borealis could be seen as far south as Providence, RI where I lived. It interrupted utilities, airline communications, etc…  The New England Telephone & Telegraph Company measured voltages as high as 150 volts across their lines. It was a “humdinger” of a solar event.  Imagine the damage that could have been caused if we had our modern satellites and cell phones back then! Being a young Novice I did not know much about solar flares, or how they affected radio communications, and even what had just happened. I came home from school, turned my ham radio on, and began to listen but I could not hear a signal on any of the bands. It was pretty much dead. I immediately thought the worst, and I remember spending half that day taking apart and checking my receiver and re-aligning it and testing the tubes and capacitors, etc… Later that week, a local ham explained to me what had taken place and how it affected the radio waves, etc… I felt a little foolish but relieved that it wasn’t my receiver after all.

Getting on the air was a different story. Now that my station was set up and working as well as it could, I decided it was time now to make some CW QSOs on 40 meters. I quickly realized that my 5 wpm code speed had already diminished somewhat due to the inactivity of waiting for my license from the FCC for those 60 days, plus the additional delay of getting my station built and set up. So, now I was really scared! The only thing worse than “mike fright” is “key fright”.  My first few QSOs were marked as “lost” in my first logbook entries. The one thing I knew for sure was that I was definitely getting out because hams were *gulp* answering my CQ’s! Fraught with panic, fear, and that fleeting thought of “why am I doing this?” I had almost given up being a ham due to the lack of anyone to Elmer me and because of the relatively few contacts I had made so far. I finally managed to stumble through a few complete QSOs right up to the 73’s. Those hams on the other end had the patience of Jobe to stay with me while I nervously pounded that old J-38 key. Eventually, I got pretty confident in my CW sending and receiving and was logging more and more complete QSO entries into my logbook.

Chasing DX was fun and I had some success on 15-meters but the better DXing was to be had on 40-meters at about 4 AM, well before I left for school. Chasing that DX created many long days at high school that was punctuated by my yawning throughout some not-so-exciting classes. The first Canadian and South American stations I worked on were great DXing achievements for me. Eventually, I made it “across the pond” and had a few QSOs with stations in Europe, particularly with stations in England and France. I was particularly proud of being able to work the Little America KC4AAA station on McMurdo Sound in the Antarctic being operated by the US Navy and some USGS scientist hams during “Operation Deep Freeze III” and the IGY of 1957-58. I would relay them the Boston Red Sox scores weekly because most of those Navy Seabees were from NAS Quonset Point, RI, and were big Red Sox fans. The QSL card from KC4AAA was hand-delivered to me the following summer one day with a knock on my door by one of the regular Navy hams I had kept in contact with at the key. What a wonderful surprise!

With the high sunspot activity at the time, some Novices were earning the Worked All Continents (WAC), Worked All States (WAS), and even the DXCC award. I wasn’t one of them, though.

One of the nice things about being “rock-bound” in those days by the few crystals you possessed, was that you could easily find other stations that you’ve worked within the 5 to 10 kilocycles that you typically searched near your “rock’s” frequency. When I would get home from school, I would typically try to make a few QSOs before going out to hang with my friends and getting my homework finished.  I was fortunate to have found on the ham radio another young ham my age in Ohio who regularly operated very near my 15-meter frequency. He was a Boy Scout too, also in the midst of trying to obtain the Eagle rank, and subsequently, we had many things in common. His callsign was KN8MTK, “Mighty Tough Kid”. His name was Ken and we would spend the better part of an hour catching up on our weekly activities and whatever else we thought was worth discussing back then. Usually, they were radio-related discussions. But we also pounded the brass about our hopes, dreams, and future plans for our lives after high school. He was my first on-the-air pal and I looked forward to those QSO’s every week. We both graduated from high school in 1960. He was headed out west to Washington State because his dad was being transferred there by the Air Force and he planned to work in a state forestry program and I was working on a charter fishing boat again that summer before heading out to college. We promised that we would listen for each other the next fall if we could get our General Class licenses and both be back on the air. Alas, we lost touch. For many years, I had often wondered what had happened to my old radio pal.

Fast forward 50 years >>  By Ken Anderson, WØETT ~ Besides rag chewing a couple of times a week on 15m while we were juniors and seniors, Jack, KN1IVY, and I worked each other in a couple of contests back then:  Novice Roundup – back when it was two weeks long – and the November Sweepstakes;  I think he beat me in both!  Other than a few local ham teenagers I met at the Dayton ARA, Jack was my on-air pal who I worked most often that first year and a half.  We kind of lost track once I left OH in the summer of 1960 to go to college in WA state. I graduated from High School in June ’60 and left for Washington State to work for the state forestry summer program.   Later that fall, I went to Centralia College in WA for my Freshman year and got the callsign K7MFF.  I only had it for a year when my Dad retired from the Air Force and the rest of the family moved to Denver, CO.  I ended up at the Univ. of Denver as a Sophomore and graduated in ’64. I’ve had this callsign WØETT since 1961.  When I came to CO in ’61 to go to DU, I got a reissue WØ call, which I’ve held since.  I hadn’t run into IVY until a few months ago while checking the Grand Mesa Contest Club (GMCC) website info about members where I read WMØG’s background and his old call KN1IVY leaped out at me. One of the DX guys I worked was Jack, ex KN1IVY in RI, who is now WMØG in Boulder. Jack got home from high school and got on the air about the same time I did and we both had a Xtal frequency within a few kilocycles (kHz for you newbies) on 15m.  I’m pretty sure that I worked KN1IVY in my first contest, the 1959 Novice Roundup!   Recently, it was fun to run into Jack (in person this time!) at the Boulder Amateur Radio Club’s swap fest after nearly 50 years and it gave us a chance to exchange a few old novice day stories. (end)

Thanks for ‘finding’ this old Novice again Ken!

It has been interesting to have this 60+ years hence Novice reunion with Ken; even though we’ve known each other in Colorado without knowing that we had known each other before (huh!) I think that sentence made sense (?) Even more interesting, what are the odds of two kids, one from Ohio and one from Rhode Island, both moving about the country and the world during these past 60+ years and only by circumstance and chance, were now meeting again in Colorado? The fact that we’re both still very active in ham radio and that we both still like to chase DX and Contest and that we both even belong to the same Grand Mesa Contest Club and Mile High DX Association radio clubs? Would you care to calculate the odds?

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